The Fergana Valley: silk, ceramics and everyday Uzbekistan

Why visit the Fergana Valley

For centuries the valley has fed Central Asia with fruit, cotton and silk. It is known as the most traditional and devout part of the country, and families here are famously hospitable. Few foreign tourists come, so a visit feels like a discovery, and the crafts you see being made here are the ones sold across the country.

Margilan

Margilan is the silk capital of Uzbekistan. At the Yodgorlik Silk Factory you can watch the whole process, from boiling cocoons and spinning thread to tying and dyeing the yarn and weaving bright ikat fabric on hand looms. The Kumtepa Bazaar, busiest on Thursdays and Sundays, is a colourful old market where local families shop for fabric, hats and food. A crafts centre in an old madrasa brings together weavers and embroiderers.

Rishtan

Rishtan has made ceramics for centuries thanks to its fine local clay. Master potters, some from families who have worked here for generations, welcome visitors to their workshops to see the wheel, the painting and the deep blue ishkor glaze that makes Rishtan pottery unmistakable. You can buy directly from the makers.

Kokand

Kokand was the capital of the last great khanate of the valley. The Palace of Khudayar Khan, with its tiled facade and painted rooms, is its finest building. The Juma Mosque has a beautiful pillared veranda of carved wooden columns, and several madrasas and the royal necropolis are close by.

Fergana city and Andijan

Fergana city was founded by the Russians and has leafy avenues and parks, making it a comfortable base. Andijan, further east, is the birthplace of Babur, founder of the Mughal empire, and has a museum in his honour and a big, lively bazaar.

Food

The valley's rice gives Fergana plov a special reputation, and its orchards fill markets with apricots, melons, grapes and pomegranates in season. Try fresh bread and samsa from tandoor ovens and drink green tea in a choyxona, the traditional teahouse.

Where to stay

Fergana city has the widest range of hotels, from international style to simple mid-range options, and makes a good base for day trips to Margilan, Rishtan and Kokand. Family guesthouses are available in some towns.

Getting there and around

Trains link Tashkent with Kokand, Margilan, Fergana and Andijan through a tunnel under the mountains, and the road over the Kamchik Pass is a spectacular drive. Fergana airport has flights to Tashkent and some international routes. Within the valley, use taxis or ride hailing apps where available, and agree fares in advance for longer trips.

A simple plan

On day one, base yourself in Fergana city, visit the Yodgorlik Silk Factory and Kumtepa Bazaar in Margilan, then return for dinner. On day two, head to Rishtan to meet the potters in the morning and continue to Kokand for the palace and the Juma Mosque, catching an evening train back to Tashkent. With a third day, add Andijan or simply slow down and enjoy the bazaars and teahouses.

Practical tips

The valley is more conservative than Tashkent, so dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered. The valley borders Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan; check your government's latest advice about border areas and do not try to cross except at official checkpoints. Cash is more important here than in the big cities.