The Grand Canyon: a first-timer's guide

Why go

Photographs never quite prepare you for the scale. Standing at the edge as the light changes at sunrise or sunset, with layers of red, orange and purple rock falling away beneath you, is one of the most memorable moments of any trip to the United States. The canyon is also a place of deep meaning to the Native American nations whose homelands surround it, including the Havasupai, Hualapai, Navajo and Hopi.

The South Rim

The **South Rim** is where nine out of ten visitors go. **Grand Canyon Village** has lodges, restaurants, a general store and the visitor centre near **Mather Point**, which is the classic first view. The **Rim Trail** follows the edge for miles, mostly flat and partly paved, so you can walk as far as you like and return on a free shuttle. **Hermit Road**, served by shuttles for much of the year, leads to viewpoints including **Hopi Point**, a favourite for sunset, and ends at **Hermit's Rest**.

To the east, **Desert View Drive** runs to the **Desert View Watchtower**, a stone tower designed by Mary Colter with views of the Colorado River. The **Yavapai Geology Museum** explains how the canyon formed. Children can earn a Junior Ranger badge at visitor centres.

Hiking

The **Bright Angel Trail** and **South Kaibab Trail** lead down into the canyon. Going down is easy; climbing back up in heat and altitude is hard, and rangers rescue unprepared hikers every year. Do not try to hike to the river and back in one day. In summer, short walks to the first rest house or viewpoint, done early in the morning, are plenty for most visitors. Overnight trips below the rim need a backcountry permit.

The North Rim

The **North Rim** is higher, cooler and far quieter, open only from mid-May to mid-October. Much of its historic lodge area was destroyed by a wildfire in 2025, so check the National Park Service site for current services and access before planning a visit.

Getting there

There is no major airport at the canyon. Most visitors fly to **Phoenix** (about three and a half hours' drive) or **Las Vegas** (about four and a half hours' drive to the South Rim) and drive, or join a tour. The **Grand Canyon Railway** runs a scenic train from Williams, Arizona, to the South Rim. Inside the park, free shuttle buses link the village, the viewpoints and trailheads. An entrance fee is charged per vehicle or person; check the official park site for current rates and passes.

Where to stay

Lodges inside the park, including the historic **El Tovar** and **Bright Angel Lodge**, book up many months ahead. **Mather Campground** takes reservations on Recreation.gov. Outside the park, the town of **Tusayan** is just south of the entrance, while **Williams** and **Flagstaff** have more choice and lower prices.

Practical tips

The South Rim sits at around seven thousand feet, so you may feel short of breath and the sun is strong. Summer days are warm on the rim but extremely hot in the canyon, and thunderstorms with lightning are common in July and August. Winter brings snow and icy paths. Stay behind railings, as falls do happen. Fuel up and carry water. Combine the canyon with Los Angeles using the free trip planner.