Western Uganda

Queen Elizabeth National Park: lions, lakes and the Kazinga Channel

Queen Elizabeth National Park stretches across the floor of the Albertine Rift Valley between Lake George and Lake Edward, with the Rwenzori Mountains on the horizon. It is Uganda's most varied savannah park, with a famous boat trip along the Kazinga Channel, the tree-climbing lions of Ishasha, chimpanzees in a hidden gorge and fields of volcanic crater lakes.

Tree-climbing lions (Panthera leo)
Photo: Charles J. Sharp, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Boat safari, game drives, lions and birding
Distance
About six to seven hours by road from Kampala
Time needed
Two to three nights
Best season
December to February and June to September
Highlights
Kazinga Channel, Ishasha, Kyambura Gorge, crater lakes
Nearby
Kibale Forest and Fort Portal to the north, Bwindi to the south

Why visit Queen Elizabeth

Queen Elizabeth fits neatly between Kibale's chimpanzees and Bwindi's gorillas, so almost every western Uganda itinerary passes through. It offers more variety than most parks its size: open grassland, papyrus swamps, forest, crater lakes and two large lakes, with more than six hundred bird species recorded.

The Kazinga Channel

The signature experience is a boat trip along the Kazinga Channel, which links Lake George and Lake Edward. Boats leave from below the Mweya peninsula and cruise slowly past one of the densest hippo populations in Africa, with buffalo wallowing in the shallows, elephants bathing and crocodiles on the banks. Birdlife is spectacular, from pelicans and skimmers to fish eagles. Afternoon trips are the most popular.

Kasenyi plains

North of the channel, the Kasenyi plains are the best area for game drives, with herds of Uganda kob and their lekking grounds attracting lions. Go at dawn with a ranger guide for the best chance of predators. Researchers sometimes run lion and mongoose tracking experiences; check what is currently offered with the Uganda Wildlife Authority.

Ishasha's tree-climbing lions

In the remote southern sector, the lions of **Ishasha** have a habit of resting in the branches of large fig trees during the heat of the day. Finding a lion draped over a branch is unforgettable. Ishasha also makes a natural stop on the way south to Bwindi.

Kyambura Gorge and Maramagambo

**Kyambura Gorge** is a sunken forest in the savannah, home to a small community of habituated chimpanzees. Sightings are less certain than in Kibale, but the setting is beautiful. **Maramagambo Forest** has walks to a bat cave where pythons hunt.

Crater lakes and salt

The **Explosion Craters** drive winds past dozens of volcanic craters, some with lakes, others filled with forest. At **Lake Katwe**, local workers harvest salt by hand from a hypersaline crater lake, as they have for centuries, and community guides explain the work.

Safety

In October 2023, two tourists and their Ugandan guide were killed in an attack in the park attributed to the Allied Democratic Forces, an armed group based in neighbouring Congo. Security has since been increased, but some governments still advise caution or against travel to parts of western Uganda near the Congo border. Read your government's current advice for the park and the Ishasha road before booking, and travel with an established operator.

Combining with Kibale

Kibale National Park, home of Uganda's most reliable chimpanzee tracking, lies about two hours north via Fort Portal and the crater lakes. Most itineraries go Kibale, then Queen Elizabeth, then Ishasha and Bwindi, which keeps each drive manageable and lets you see chimpanzees, savannah and gorillas in about a week.

Birding

With more than six hundred species, Queen Elizabeth is one of Africa's top birding parks. Look for shoebills in the Ishasha papyrus, flamingos on the crater lakes and martial eagles over the plains.

Where to stay

Lodges range from simple campsites and bandas on Mweya to luxury tented camps on the escarpment above Kyambura Gorge and in Ishasha. Many sit just outside the park boundary with views across the plains. Plan the drive times with the free trip planner.

Questions about Queen Elizabeth National Park

Are the tree-climbing lions guaranteed?

No. The Ishasha lions often climb fig trees, but sightings depend on luck and the season. A full morning in the sector gives the best chance.

Is Queen Elizabeth National Park safe?

Most visits pass safely and security was stepped up after the 2023 attack. Check your government's current advice for western Uganda and travel with an established operator.

Can I combine Queen Elizabeth with the gorillas?

Yes. Bwindi is a few hours south through Ishasha, so the two parks are usually visited back to back.

Is the Kazinga Channel boat trip worth it?

Yes. It is one of the best wildlife boat trips in Africa, with huge numbers of hippos, buffalo, elephants and birds at close range.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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