Bwindi Impenetrable National Park: trekking with mountain gorillas

Why visit Bwindi

There are only around a thousand mountain gorillas left in the wild, all in the forests of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Bwindi has more of them than anywhere else. The forest is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with tree ferns, vines and hundreds of bird and butterfly species. Uganda's permits are generally less costly than Rwanda's, which is one reason so many travellers choose Bwindi.

How gorilla trekking works

Each habituated gorilla family can be visited by one small group of trekkers per day, for one hour. You report to the park office in the morning for a briefing, are assigned a family and set off with rangers and trackers. Treks can take from under an hour to most of a day, through steep, muddy terrain. Once you reach the gorillas, you stay quietly at a distance while they feed, play and rest around you. Masks may be required to protect the gorillas from human illness, and you cannot trek if you are sick.

The four sectors

• **Buhoma:** in the north, the original and most developed sector, with the most lodges and gentler access from Queen Elizabeth.
• **Ruhija:** in the east, high and cool, excellent for birders.
• **Rushaga:** in the south, with the most gorilla families and the gorilla habituation experience.
• **Nkuringo:** in the southwest, with steep treks and views of the Virunga volcanoes.

Your permit is tied to a sector, so book your lodge near the right one; the drive between sectors can take hours.

Gorilla habituation experience

In Rushaga, a small number of permits allow you to spend up to four hours with a gorilla family still being habituated to people, alongside researchers. It costs more and is more demanding, but it is a rare chance to see gorilla behaviour at length.

Beyond the gorillas

Guided forest walks lead to waterfalls in Buhoma, and the Ivi River trail links Buhoma and Nkuringo. Community visits with the **Batwa**, the forest people who lived here before the park was created, explain their traditions and their displacement. Around Buhoma, community crafts groups and tea plantations are worth a visit.

Fitness and packing

You need reasonable fitness, but porters can be hired at the trailhead to carry your bag and help you up slopes, which also supports local families. Pack waterproof hiking boots, long trousers tucked into socks, a rain jacket, garden gloves for gripping vines, water, snacks and a camera without flash.

Lake Bunyonyi and Mgahinga

Two hours from the southern sectors, **Lake Bunyonyi** is a deep, calm lake dotted with islands and surrounded by terraced hills, perfect for resting after the trek. **Mgahinga Gorilla National Park**, near Kisoro, has one gorilla family plus golden monkey tracking and volcano hikes.

Trekking etiquette

Keep a distance of several metres, speak quietly, never eat near the gorillas and turn away to cough or sneeze. If a gorilla approaches, stay still and follow the rangers' lead.

Getting there

Bwindi is a long day's drive from Kampala, so most visitors arrive from Queen Elizabeth or fly to the Kihihi or Kisoro airstrips. Book permits first, then build the rest of the trip around them using the free trip planner.