Kampala: a first-timer's guide to Uganda's capital

Why visit Kampala

Kampala is where you feel Uganda's energy. Traditionally built on seven hills, it now covers dozens, each with its own character. The city can feel chaotic at first, with traffic jams, boda boda motorbike taxis weaving everywhere and markets that seem to have no end, but people are friendly, English is widely spoken and the food is excellent. Most visitors who give it a chance end up loving it.

Royal and religious Kampala

The **Kasubi Tombs**, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, hold the burial places of four kings of Buganda under a vast thatched dome. The main building was rebuilt after a fire, and guides explain the traditions of the kingdom. Nearby, **Mengo Palace** (the Lubiri) faces Bulange, the Buganda parliament, down a straight royal mile, with the dark history of Idi Amin's underground torture chambers in the palace grounds. Climb the minaret of the **Gaddafi National Mosque** on Old Kampala hill for the best view of the city, then visit **Namirembe Cathedral** and **Rubaga Cathedral** on their own hills. Just outside the city, the **Uganda Martyrs Shrine** at Namugongo draws millions of pilgrims every year on Martyrs Day, 3 June.

Museums and the arts

The **Uganda Museum** in Kamwokya is old fashioned but rewarding, with traditional instruments you can sometimes play. For live culture, book an evening at the **Ndere Centre** in Ntinda, where the Ndere Troupe performs dances from across the country. Contemporary art is thriving: look for **Afriart Gallery**, **Nommo Gallery** and the **32° East** arts centre.

Neighbourhoods to know

• **Kololo and Nakasero:** leafy, upmarket hills with embassies, hotels, restaurants and cafés.
• **Old Kampala and the city centre:** markets, mosques and the busy taxi parks. Bustling and best explored by day.
• **Kabalagala and Kansanga:** the nightlife strip on Ggaba Road, with bars, clubs and pork joints.
• **Muyenga and Bugolobi:** quieter residential hills with guesthouses and good views.
• **Ntinda and Bukoto:** middle class neighbourhoods with malls, cafés and the Ndere Centre.
• **Munyonyo and Ggaba:** on the shore of Lake Victoria, with resorts, fish markets and boat trips.

Food and markets

You cannot leave without eating a **rolex**, a chapati rolled around an omelette with tomato and cabbage, sold at street stalls everywhere. Try **luwombo**, chicken or beef steamed in banana leaves, **matooke** with groundnut sauce, and roasted **muchomo** skewers at night. **Owino Market** (St Balikuddembe) and **Nakasero Market** are vast and chaotic, best visited with a local friend or guide. Craft shoppers head to the stalls on Buganda Road and around the National Theatre.

Nightlife

Kampala's nightlife is famous across Africa. Bars fill from Thursday, live bands play Ugandan and Congolese music, and clubs in Kabalagala and Kololo run until dawn. Go out in a group, use a ride-hailing app to get home and keep your phone out of sight.

Safety

Kampala is generally safe for visitors who take city precautions. Bag snatching and phone theft from vehicles and motorbikes happen, so keep windows up in traffic and valuables hidden. Avoid walking alone after dark, and use registered boda bodas from SafeBoda, Uber or Bolt rather than flagging one on the street. Read your government's latest travel advice before you go.

Getting there and around

Entebbe International Airport is about forty kilometres south, roughly an hour by the Entebbe Expressway outside rush hour. In the city, ride-hailing cars are the easiest choice, boda bodas are fastest in traffic (always wear the helmet) and white and blue minibus taxis are cheapest. Plan your days with the free trip planner and find restaurants and sights on our places to visit list.