Nukufetau: a wide lagoon and a wartime airfield

Getting your bearings

Nukufetau's lagoon is large and ringed by many islets. The main village sits on **Savave** islet, with homes, the church, the **maneapa** and the school. Other islets hold gardens, coconut groves and fishing spots, reached by small boat. The lagoon's calm water and sandbars are beautiful in good weather.

Motulalo and the war

In 1943, American forces built an airfield on **Motulalo** islet to support the advance across the central Pacific. Aircraft flew from here against Japanese positions further north. Today the strip is reclaimed by bush, but you can trace its line and find remnants. Go with someone local and ask permission first, as land belongs to families.

The lagoon

The lagoon is ideal for swimming and snorkelling on calm days, and fishing is central to life here. If you are invited on a fishing trip, it is a privilege; follow your hosts' lead and never fish or collect without permission. Watch the currents in reef passages.

Village life

Days revolve around family, church and the maneapa, where the elders, the **falekaupule**, make decisions. Visitors may be welcomed formally with speeches and food. Accept graciously, dress modestly and share a small gift if appropriate. Sunday is a day of rest: no swimming, fishing or noisy activity.

Getting there

Nukufetau is served by the **government ships** from Funafuti, often on a route with other central islands. Schedules change frequently. Because it is relatively close, trips can be shorter than to the far north or south, but plan for delays. There are no regular flights.

Where to stay

There are no hotels. Lodging is a simple **guesthouse** run by the island council or a stay with a family, arranged in advance. Contact the Nukufetau community in Funafuti or the Kaupule before you sail.

Food

Expect home cooking: fresh fish, **pulaka**, **breadfruit**, coconut and, at feasts, coconut crab and pork. Bring snacks, bottled water or a filter, and any special items you need, since stores are small.

Practicalities

Carry enough Australian dollars, as there is no bank. Bring medicines, sun protection, a torch and a power bank. Connectivity can be limited. See Funafuti for arrival and departure, and fit the sailing into your plans with the free trip planner.

Why go

Nukufetau is a chance to see Tuvaluan life as it has long been lived, with the lagoon, the land and the community at its heart. The memories of being welcomed here will outlast any sight.

Weather and timing

The drier months from about May to October bring steadier trade winds and generally calmer sailing. From November to April, the wet season brings heavier rain, hotter days and the risk of tropical cyclones, which can delay or cancel ships. Whatever the season, keep your plans flexible and leave several spare days before your international flight from Funafuti.

Being a good guest

Bring useful gifts such as tinned food, rice or school supplies for your hosts, and offer to help with small tasks. Ask before photographing people or homes. Respect the rules about the reef and land, and take your rubbish back to Funafuti. These small gestures matter far more on a remote atoll than in a big city.

Health and safety

There is a small clinic but no hospital, and serious cases must be taken to Funafuti or overseas, which can take days. Bring a basic first aid kit, any prescription medicines and travel insurance that covers medical evacuation. Use insect repellent against dengue, drink treated water and protect yourself from the sun.