Nanumea: Tuvalu's northern atoll of church and history

Getting your bearings

Nanumea is an atoll with two main islets, **Nanumea** itself and **Lakena**, around a lagoon. The village sits on the main islet, with homes, churches, the community **maneapa** and gardens of breadfruit, coconut and **pulaka** taro. There are no tourist businesses in the usual sense. Life follows the rhythm of fishing, gardening, church and community meetings led by the elders.

The church

The Nanumea church, with its tall tower, is one of the most impressive buildings in Tuvalu and a symbol of the island's pride. Sunday services fill with harmonised singing. Visitors are welcome, but dress modestly, cover shoulders and knees, and follow what your hosts do.

The wartime story

During the Second World War, American forces built an **airfield** on Nanumea as they advanced across the central Pacific. Traces remain, including old foundations and a **landing craft wreck** in the shallows. Ask local people to show you, as much is overgrown and on family land.

The lagoon and islets

The lagoon is calm and lovely for a swim. **Lakena** islet holds taro pits and quiet shores. Always ask before crossing to another islet or using a canoe, and remember that every piece of land and reef belongs to someone.

Getting there

Nanumea is reached by the **government ships** that serve the outer islands from Funafuti. Schedules are published by the government marine department and change often, sometimes at short notice. A round trip can take days, and you may need to stay until the next sailing. There is no regular flight. Plan generous time and a flexible international return.

Where to stay

Accommodation is usually a simple **island council guesthouse** or a family home. Arrange it before you leave Funafuti, through the island community's office in Funafuti or the Kaupule. Bring cash, gifts of useful supplies are appreciated, and expect shared facilities.

Customs and etiquette

On arrival you may be formally welcomed in the maneapa. Sit when invited, accept food, and do not wander off without telling your hosts. Ask before taking photos of people. Sunday is for rest and church: avoid swimming, fishing or loud activity.

Food

Meals are shared and home cooked: **fresh fish**, **breadfruit**, **pulaka**, coconut and sometimes **coconut crab**. Imported goods are limited between ships, so bring snacks and any special food you need.

Practicalities

There is no bank and no card payment, so carry enough Australian dollars. Mobile and internet coverage can be patchy. There is a small health clinic but no hospital, so bring any medicines. Read the Funafuti guide for the start and end of your journey and plan the ship days with the free trip planner.

A sense of place

Nanumea has its own traditions, stories of founding ancestors and dances that differ from those of other islands. Elders may share them if you show genuine interest and patience. Bring a small notebook, listen more than you speak and thank people properly. Time here moves slowly: meals stretch, meetings start when everyone arrives and plans change with the weather and the ship. Embrace that pace and you will understand why Nanumeans living overseas talk about their island with such longing. Take your rubbish home with you, as waste is hard to manage on a small atoll.