Izmir: the Aegean city and gateway to Ephesus

Why go

Izmir feels more Mediterranean than many visitors expect. In the evening the whole city seems to walk the **Kordon**, the seafront promenade, and sit on the grass watching the sunset over the bay. It is far less crowded than Istanbul, the food is excellent, and some of the most important ruins in the world are an easy day away.

The city

**Konak Square**, with its delicate **clock tower**, is the centre. Behind it, **Kemeraltı** is a huge historic bazaar of lanes, mosques, old inns and food stalls; the restored **Kızlarağası Han** is a lovely place for coffee. **Alsancak** is the lively district of old Levantine houses, bars and cafés, and **Kadifekale**, the ancient hilltop citadel, gives a view over the whole bay. Ride the old **Asansör**, a lift built in 1907 in the Karataş area, for the view and a meal at the top. Ferries criss cross the bay to **Karşıyaka**, and a ride is a cheap and lovely way to see the city.

Ephesus

About an hour south by road or İZBAN train to Selçuk, **Ephesus** is a UNESCO site and one of the best preserved Roman cities anywhere. Walk down the marble Curetes Street to the façade of the **Library of Celsus** and the **Great Theatre**, and pay extra for the **Terrace Houses**, rich Roman homes with mosaics and frescoes under a protective roof. Arrive at opening time or late afternoon to avoid the cruise crowds and the midday heat. In **Selçuk** itself, the **Ephesus Museum**, the **Basilica of St John** and the lone column of the **Temple of Artemis** are worth an extra hour.

Şirince and the countryside

In the hills above Selçuk, **Şirince** is a former Greek village of stone houses, known for fruit wines and village breakfasts. It is busy at weekends, so come early or stay overnight.

Pamukkale and Hierapolis

**Pamukkale** is a hillside of white travertine terraces filled with warm mineral water, with the ruined Roman spa city of **Hierapolis** on top. Walk barefoot up the terraces, swim in the **Antique Pool** among fallen columns, and stay for sunset. It is a long day trip from Izmir, so many travellers sleep a night in Pamukkale village or Denizli.

The coast

**Çeşme** and **Alaçatı**, on a peninsula west of Izmir, are summer favourites of Turkish families, with windmills, stone houses, boutique hotels and windsurfing. North, **Bergama** has the ancient acropolis of **Pergamon** with its steep theatre, and **Ayvalık** is a charming town of old Greek houses and olive oil.

Getting around

Izmir has a metro, the İZBAN suburban railway (which runs to Selçuk for Ephesus), buses and ferries, all using the İzmirim card. The airport is connected to the city by İZBAN and Havaş coaches.

Where to stay

**Alsancak** puts you near the Kordon, bars and restaurants, and is the best all round base. **Konak** is central and close to the bazaar. For Ephesus, many travellers prefer a guesthouse in **Selçuk**, a small, walkable town with a Saturday market and storks nesting on the aqueduct. In summer, **Alaçatı** is the stylish seaside choice.

Food

Izmir's mild climate brings a cuisine full of wild greens, artichokes and olive oil. Breakfast is boyoz and eggs, lunch is a kumru sandwich, and dinner is meze and fish on the waterfront.