Northeast Tobago: rainforest, Speyside reefs and quiet bays

The Main Ridge

The Main Ridge Forest Reserve, protected since 1776, is often described as the oldest legally protected rainforest in the Western Hemisphere. The Gilpin Trace trail leads through tall forest to small waterfalls, and local guides at the trailhead can point out motmots, trogons, hummingbirds and the rare white tailed sabrewing. Wear proper shoes: the trail is muddy for much of the year.

Castara and the north side

Castara is a friendly fishing village where nets come in on the beach and bread is still baked in clay ovens on some days. Englishman's Bay, a little further east, is a sheltered, forest backed bay often called one of the most beautiful in the Caribbean. Parlatuvier, with its jetty in a tiny horseshoe bay, and Bloody Bay are also worth a stop.

Speyside and Little Tobago

Speyside, on the Atlantic coast, is Tobago's diving centre. Strong currents bring rich marine life: manta rays, turtles and some of the largest brain corals in the region. Glass bottom boats and dive boats cross to Little Tobago, an island bird sanctuary where red billed tropicbirds nest. Jemma's Seaview Kitchen, a family restaurant built into a tree above the sea, is a local favourite.

Charlotteville

At the end of the road, Charlotteville wraps around Man O War Bay. A steep path leads to Pirate's Bay, a hidden beach with good snorkelling, and Flagstaff Hill gives views across the Sisters rocks and the St Giles islands.

Waterfalls on the way

On the windward road from Scarborough, Argyle Waterfall near Roxborough is a short guided walk to tiered pools where you can swim. King's Bay Waterfall at Delaford is smaller and quieter. Plan a full loop of the island with stops at each.

Practical tips

Roads are narrow and winding, and the drive from Crown Point takes longer than the map suggests. Cash machines are few, so bring enough Trinidad and Tobago dollars. Diving and boat trips depend on the weather and on licensed operators, so check conditions and the operator's safety briefing before you go. Respect the reef: never touch coral.

How long to stay

Many visitors make northeast Tobago a single long day trip from Crown Point, but it is far better with at least two nights. Stay one night in Castara for the north side bays and the Main Ridge, and one or two in Speyside or Charlotteville for diving, Little Tobago and Pirate's Bay. Small guest houses and family run lodges dominate, so book ahead in the dry season and around Easter.

Where to eat

Food here is simple and fresh: fish caught that morning, callaloo, macaroni pie, provision such as dasheen and breadfruit, and curried crab. Most villages have a few family restaurants and beach shacks, and opening hours can be short, so ask your guest house what is open in the evening. Many lodges will cook dinner on request if you let them know earlier in the day.

A loop of the island

A classic island loop starts at Crown Point, follows the windward road through Roxborough and Speyside, continues to Charlotteville, then crosses the forest road over the Main Ridge to the north side bays before returning along the Caribbean coast. Allow a full day for the loop with plenty of stops, and drive the forest road in daylight only, as it is steep, narrow and unlit.