Central and south Trinidad: ibis, temples and Pitch Lake

Caroni Swamp and the scarlet ibis

Just south of Port of Spain, the Caroni Bird Sanctuary is the essential nature trip on Trinidad. Late afternoon boat tours glide through mangrove channels, past tree boas and herons, to a lagoon where thousands of scarlet ibis, the national bird, fly in to roost at sunset. Nanan's is the best known family operator, and tours leave from the jetty off the Uriah Butler Highway.

Temples and heritage

At Waterloo, on the west coast, the Temple in the Sea stands on a small causeway over the water. It honours Sewdass Sadhu, who spent years carrying stones into the sea to build a place of worship. Nearby, a small museum tells the story of Indian indentured arrivals. A short drive away at Carapichaima, the Dattatreya Yoga Centre has a striking statue of Hanuman, the monkey deity, beside a temple in South Indian style. Dress modestly, remove shoes where asked and follow the guidance of temple staff.

Chaguanas

Chaguanas is the country's fastest growing town, a busy place of markets, roti shops, jewellers and malls. The main market is excellent for spices and pepper sauce. The Lion House on the Main Road inspired V. S. Naipaul's novel A House for Mr Biswas. In the days before Divali, the Divali Nagar grounds host music, dance, food and lights, and villages across the region glow with clay deyas.

San Fernando and the south

San Fernando, Trinidad's second city, has a hill park with views across the south and the old Harris Promenade with its churches. At La Brea, the Pitch Lake is the largest natural asphalt lake on earth: guides from the visitor centre walk you over its wrinkled surface and around warm pools. Inland, the Devil's Woodyard and Piparo mud volcanoes bubble quietly, and the Pointe-a-Pierre Wildfowl Trust, inside a refinery compound, protects waterfowl and runs an education centre that welcomes visitors by arrangement.

The east coast

On the Atlantic side, Manzanilla and Mayaro are long, palm lined beaches where southern families spend holidays. Swimming can be rough, but the walks are beautiful. Nearby, the Nariva Swamp is home to manatees, red howler monkeys and parrots.

Practical tips

Distances are short, but traffic around Chaguanas and San Fernando can be heavy at rush hours. A trusted driver or tour is the easiest way to combine Caroni, Waterloo and Carapichaima in one day. Carry cash for markets and food stalls.

Food to try

Central and south Trinidad have some of the best Indian Caribbean food in the country. Look for doubles, saheena, pholourie, aloo pie, curried duck, curried goat and buss up shut roti, and finish with kurma or barfi from a sweet shop. Debe, south of San Fernando, is famous for its food stalls, and Chaguanas has roti shops on almost every street. Wash it down with sorrel at Christmas or fresh coconut water all year.

A one day loop

Start in the morning at the Temple in the Sea and the nearby museum at Waterloo, drive inland to the Hanuman statue at Carapichaima, then lunch in Chaguanas and browse the market. In the late afternoon, take a boat into the Caroni Swamp for the scarlet ibis at sunset before returning north to Port of Spain. Save San Fernando and the Pitch Lake for a separate day, as the drive south and back is long in traffic.