Maubisse and Mount Ramelau: coffee hills and sunrise from the top

Why go to the highlands

The mountains show a side of Timor-Leste many visitors miss. Mornings are crisp, the hills are terraced with vegetables and shaded coffee, and traditional sacred houses stand in the villages. The climb of Mount Ramelau for sunrise is one of the great experiences in the country.

Maubisse

Maubisse is a small market town spread over hilltops. The Pousada de Maubisse, a Portuguese era guesthouse on a summit above the town, has wide views across the ranges and is the most comfortable base. The Sunday market brings farmers from all around to trade vegetables, coffee, livestock and tais. Short walks lead through coffee plantations and villages where people will often stop to chat.

Climbing Mount Ramelau

Most climbers spend the night in Hatubuilico, a village at the foot of the mountain, in one of the simple guesthouses or homestays. Start walking in the dark in the early hours to reach the summit for sunrise. The path is steady rather than technical, mostly along a well worn track, and takes a few hours up for reasonably fit walkers. On a clear morning you can see both the north and south coasts as the sun rises. A white statue of the Virgin Mary stands on the summit, and thousands of Timorese pilgrims climb in October for a major religious gathering.

What to pack

It can be close to freezing at the summit before dawn. Bring a warm jacket, a hat, gloves, a head torch, sturdy shoes, water and snacks. Hire a local guide in Hatubuilico: they know the path in the dark, and the money supports the village.

Getting there

The road from Dili climbs via Aileu to Maubisse, then a rougher road continues to Hatubuilico. Distances are short but the roads are winding, narrow and slow, with landslips in the wet season. Minibuses run from Dili to Maubisse, mostly in the morning, but the last stretch to Hatubuilico has little public transport, so many travellers arrange private transport through their guesthouse or a tour operator. A four wheel drive vehicle is often needed in the rains.

When to go

The dry season, from about May to October, brings the clearest summits and the safest roads. In the wet season, cloud often hides the view and roads can be cut. Whatever the month, nights are cold.

Respecting local customs

Sacred houses, known as uma lulik, and some springs and groves are sacred. Ask before entering or photographing them, dress modestly and follow your guide's lead.

A sample trip

On day one, leave Dili in the morning, stop in Aileu for a break and reach Maubisse by early afternoon. Settle into the pousada, walk into town and watch the clouds roll across the hills at sunset. On day two, continue to Hatubuilico, walk around the village and the lower slopes, eat early and sleep early. On day three, start climbing in the dark to watch sunrise from the summit, then walk down for a hearty breakfast and drive back towards Dili or stay another night to rest. Coffee lovers can add a detour west towards Ermera and Letefoho, where much of the country's arabica is grown and harvested by hand.