Jaco Island and Tutuala: the far eastern tip of Timor

Why make the journey

Jaco Island is the reward for one of the great road trips in Southeast Asia. Along the way you pass Baucau, fishing villages, the tall stilted houses of Lautem and the forests of the country's first national park. Then you reach Valu Beach, look across to Jaco and have a near perfect beach almost to yourself.

Nino Konis Santana National Park

Jaco and Tutuala sit within Nino Konis Santana National Park, named after a resistance leader from the area. The park protects tropical forest, coral reefs, Lake Ira Lalaro and important cultural sites. Rangers and community groups work together, and visits support local livelihoods.

Crossing to Jaco

Fishermen at Valu Beach run small boats across the channel for the short crossing. Spend the day swimming, snorkelling and walking the sand, but bring everything you need, including water, food and shade, as there are no facilities. Overnight stays on the island are not allowed because it is sacred. Currents in the channel can be strong, so do not try to swim across.

Rock art and Tutuala

Above the coast, the village of Tutuala sits on a clifftop with wide sea views and an old Portuguese guesthouse. Nearby, a path leads to Ile Kére Kére, a rock shelter with ancient red ochre paintings of boats, animals and people, part of a long history of human settlement in eastern Timor. Go with a local guide, who can explain the stories behind the sites.

Where to stay

At Valu Beach, the community runs simple huts with basic bathrooms and meals of fish and rice. It is very simple but the location is extraordinary. Com, further west on the way, has a beach resort and guesthouses, and Lospalos, the regional town, has a few small hotels.

Getting there

The drive from Dili to Tutuala is long, usually broken with a night in Baucau or Com. The final stretch from Tutuala village down to Valu Beach is steep and rough. Public transport goes as far as Lospalos and sometimes Tutuala, but most travellers arrange private transport through a tour operator or their accommodation. In the wet season, roads can become very difficult.

Before you go

Bring enough cash: the last ATMs are in Baucau and possibly Lospalos. Carry water, sunscreen, insect repellent and a basic first aid kit. Mobile coverage is limited. Respect sacred sites and ask before photographing people or houses.

A sample trip

On day one, drive from Dili to Baucau, stopping for a swim on the coast. On day two, continue east past Laga and the stilted houses of Lautem, stock up in Lospalos and reach Valu Beach by afternoon. On day three, cross to Jaco early, spend the morning swimming and snorkelling, then visit the rock art near Tutuala in the afternoon. On day four, begin the long drive back, perhaps with a night at Com. Wildlife lovers can add a morning at Lake Ira Lalaro for birdwatching. Take it slowly: the journey itself, with its markets, children waving from villages and views of an empty coast, is half the adventure.