Chiang Mai: temples, mountains and markets in northern Thailand

Why go

Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna kingdom, and its culture, food and architecture are distinct from Bangkok's. The old city is small enough to walk or cycle, the surrounding countryside is green and mountainous, and there is a calm, creative feel that suits families, couples and solo travellers alike.

Temples

Inside the old city walls, Wat Phra Singh is the most revered temple, with a beautiful Lanna style chapel. Wat Chedi Luang has a vast ruined chedi damaged by an earthquake centuries ago; its monk chat sessions let you ask monks about their lives. Wat Phan Tao is a lovely teak temple. Just outside town, Wat Umong has meditation tunnels in the forest. Above the city, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep sits on its mountain, reached by a winding road and a staircase flanked by naga serpents, with views across the valley on clear days.

Markets

The Sunday Walking Street fills Ratchadamnoen Road from Tha Phae Gate, with crafts, music and food. On Saturday the Wualai Road market has silverwork and snacks. The Night Bazaar runs every evening on Chang Klan Road. Warorot Market, by the river, is where locals shop for northern sausage, dried fruit and fabrics.

Food

Khao soi, a curried noodle soup with crispy noodles on top, is Chiang Mai's signature dish. Try also sai ua (herby northern sausage), nam prik ong (a tomato and pork chilli dip) and khantoke, a northern style set dinner. Cooking classes, many on farms outside the city, are one of the best things to do here, and include a market visit.

Elephants and nature

Choose an elephant sanctuary that does not offer riding, bathing shows or performances, and read its policies before booking. Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest mountain, is a long day trip with waterfalls, twin royal pagodas and cloud forest trails. Closer in, the Sticky Waterfall (Bua Tong) lets you climb up limestone cascades, and the Mae Sa valley has gardens and treks.

Neighbourhoods

The Old City is quiet, walkable and full of guesthouses. Nimmanhaemin, to the west near the university, has cafés, boutiques and bars. The riverside and Tha Phae Gate area have good hotels and easy access to the Night Bazaar. Hang Dong and the mountains offer resort stays in nature.

Getting there and around

Flights from Bangkok take about an hour. The overnight sleeper train is a classic experience, best booked ahead on the State Railway of Thailand site. In town, red songthaew trucks work as shared taxis: tell the driver your destination and agree the fare. Ride apps work well, and many guesthouses rent bicycles.

When to go

November to February is cool and lovely, and the Yi Peng lantern festival, usually in November alongside Loy Krathong, is magical. From about February to April, crop burning brings heavy smoke and poor air quality; check air quality forecasts and consider other regions if you have breathing problems. Songkran in April is a city-wide water fight.

Beyond Chiang Mai

Pai, a winding three hours away, is a laid-back valley town. Chiang Rai has the White Temple and the Golden Triangle, and Sukhothai's ruins are on the way back south.