Krak des Chevaliers and the Valley of the Christians

Why go

Few historic sites are as complete or as atmospheric as Krak. You can walk its moats and ramps, climb towers, stand in vaulted halls and look out over the Homs Gap, the pass between the mountains that the castle was built to guard. It was damaged during the war, including air strikes in 2014, but restoration work has repaired much of it and it is open to visitors. Pair it with a night in the valley below for the most relaxed stop on any Syria route.

Exploring the castle

The castle has two rings of walls. Enter through the long, vaulted ramp, built so that attackers would be exposed at every turn, and come out into the inner court. Highlights include the **Gothic loggia** and **great hall** with carved stonework, the **chapel** later turned into a mosque, the long **storerooms and stables**, and the **Warden's Tower**, from which there are views across to the Lebanese mountains. Allow at least two to three hours. Paths and stairs are uneven, there are few railings and parts are dark, so bring a torch and sensible shoes.

Go early or late in the day for the best light and fewer groups, and bring water: facilities are basic. A local guide makes the history and the layout much clearer.

The Valley of the Christians

Wadi al Nasara is a cluster of mainly Christian villages such as **Marmarita**, **Mishtaya** and **Al Hwash**, with orchards, springs and a cooler climate than the plains. In summer it fills with Syrian families on holiday, and with diaspora visitors returning to their home villages. The **Monastery of Saint George (Mar Georgios) at Al Humayrah** is an important Greek Orthodox monastery with an old chapel and a large feast on Saint George's day and in September for the Feast of the Cross. Respectful visitors are welcome.

Food

Village restaurants serve generous mezze, grilled chicken and meat, fresh salads from the orchards and local arak. Mountain fruit, such as apples and cherries, is sold by the roadside in season.

Where to stay

The valley has a handful of hotels, from the larger **Al Wadi Hotel** in Mishtaya to small family guesthouses. Some close or reduce services in winter. Staying here rather than in Homs means quiet evenings and a short trip to the castle at dawn.

Getting there

The castle is about three hours by road from Damascus via Homs, ninety minutes from Hama and about an hour from Tartus on the coast. There is no reliable public transport to the castle itself, so most visitors come with a licensed driver or tour operator, or by taxi from Homs.

Safety and practical tips

The area is close to the Lebanese border and the city of Homs saw heavy fighting during the war. Check your government's current advice for the Homs governorate before you go. Stay on marked paths, as unexploded ordnance has been found in rural Syria. Bring cash, a scarf for church and mosque visits and a warm layer in spring and autumn evenings. Use the free trip planner to fit the castle between Damascus, Hama and Latakia.

Best time to visit

Spring, when the valley is green and full of blossom, and early autumn, around the Feast of the Cross, are the loveliest seasons. Summer is warm but cooler than the plains.