Damascus: a first-timer's guide to Syria's ancient capital

Why go

Few places let you walk through so many layers of history in one afternoon. A Roman gate leads into a souk built under the Ottomans, which ends at a mosque raised on the site of a Roman temple and a Byzantine church. Then you sit down in a restored courtyard with a lemon tree, a fountain and a glass of tea. Damascus is busy, noisy and still recovering from years of war and economic hardship, but it is also gentle, sociable and full of beauty once you step off the main roads.

Top things to do

Start at the **Umayyad Mosque**, one of the oldest and grandest mosques in the world, with its golden mosaics, vast marble courtyard and the shrine said to hold the head of John the Baptist. Women are given a robe to wear at the entrance, and everyone removes their shoes. Visit near sunset, when families gather in the courtyard.

Reach the mosque through **Souq al Hamidiyah**, the great covered market with its iron roof pierced by old bullet holes that let in shafts of light. Stop at **Bakdash** for pounded ice cream with pistachios, a Damascus ritual since the late nineteenth century. Nearby, the **Azem Palace** is an eighteenth century governor's residence of black and white stone courtyards, and the **Tomb of Saladin** sits in a small garden beside the mosque.

Walk east along **Straight Street** (Souq Medhat Pasha), mentioned in the Bible, past spice sellers, copper workers and the Roman arch, into the Christian quarters of **Bab Touma** and **Bab Sharqi**. Here you will find the **Chapel of Saint Ananias**, built over the cellar where Saint Paul is said to have been baptised, old churches and some of the city's best courtyard restaurants.

Outside the walls, the **National Museum of Damascus** holds treasures from Ugarit, Mari and Palmyra, including a reconstructed synagogue from Dura Europos. Check opening hours locally, as they have changed often. For views over the whole city, go up **Mount Qasioun** at dusk.

Food

Damascus has one of the great kitchens of the Arab world. Try **fatteh** (chickpeas, yoghurt and toasted bread) for breakfast, **shawarma** and **falafel** from street counters, **kibbeh** in many forms and Damascene sweets such as **barazek** sesame biscuits and pistachio **halawet el jibn**. Courtyard restaurants in the Old City serve long mezze spreads in the evening. Alcohol is served in some Christian quarter restaurants and bars, but always be discreet.

Where to stay

The most memorable choice is a **boutique courtyard hotel** inside the Old City walls, often in a restored Ottoman house. They are small and atmospheric, though rooms can be dark and the lanes are not reachable by car. Larger modern hotels sit outside the walls near the centre and offer more reliable power and space. Book ahead in spring and autumn, and confirm the hotel can register your stay as required.

Getting around

The Old City is best on foot. For longer trips use the yellow taxis, agreeing the fare first, or ride hailing apps that work in Damascus. Traffic is heavy and checkpoints, though fewer than before, can still slow journeys. Keep a copy of your passport with you at all times.

Safety

Damascus has been the most visited part of Syria since the change of government, but most Western governments still advise against all travel to the country. Incidents can happen without warning. Avoid demonstrations, military sites and the outer suburbs that saw heavy fighting, where unexploded ordnance remains. Do not photograph security forces or government buildings. Dress modestly, especially in mosques and conservative neighbourhoods.

Day trips

The mountain village of **Maaloula**, an hour north, has cliff convents and residents who still speak a western dialect of Aramaic, though it was damaged in the war. Nearby **Saydnaya** has an ancient convent on a rocky hill. Check current advice and road conditions before any trip outside the city, and use the free trip planner to fit Damascus into your route.