Lucerne: a first-timer's guide to the lake city

Why go

Few places put so much within such easy reach. In a single day you can walk across the Chapel Bridge, ride a paddle steamer across Lake Lucerne and climb the world's steepest cogwheel railway to the top of Mount Pilatus. The town itself is small enough to explore on foot, with painted facades, fountains and lakeside promenades at every turn.

The old town

The **Chapel Bridge** (Kapellbrücke), a covered wooden bridge from the fourteenth century with painted panels under its roof, is the city's symbol, alongside the stone **Water Tower** beside it. Upstream, the **Spreuer Bridge** has its own series of Dance of Death paintings. The old town squares, **Weinmarkt** and **Kornmarkt**, are lined with frescoed buildings, and you can walk the **Musegg Wall**, a line of medieval towers above the town, for free in the warmer months. The **Lion Monument**, a dying lion carved into a sandstone cliff to honour Swiss Guards killed in Paris in 1792, is short walk away and genuinely moving.

On the lake

Lake Lucerne winds between mountains in long arms, and the historic **paddle steamers** of the lake shipping company are a highlight in themselves. Short round trips suit a relaxed afternoon, while longer runs reach Vitznau, Weggis, Brunnen and Flüelen. Many Swiss rail passes include the boats.

The mountains

**Mount Pilatus** is the classic: in summer, take the boat to Alpnachstad and the steep cogwheel railway up, then descend by aerial cableway and gondola to Kriens, a round trip known as the Golden Round Trip. **Rigi**, the Queen of the Mountains, is gentler, with easy panoramic walks and Europe's first mountain railway from Vitznau. **Mount Titlis** above Engelberg has year-round snow, a glacier cave, the rotating Rotair cable car and the Titlis Cliff Walk suspension bridge. The **Stanserhorn** offers an open-top double-deck cable car. Check the webcams before you go and choose the clearest day.

Museums

The **Swiss Museum of Transport** is the most visited museum in the country and brilliant for families, with trains, planes, a planetarium and a chocolate experience. The **KKL Luzern** concert hall on the waterfront hosts the summer Lucerne Festival. The **Rosengart Collection** holds an exceptional group of Picasso and Klee works.

Food

Look for **Luzerner Chügelipastete**, a puff pastry vol-au-vent filled with veal and mushrooms in cream, the local favourite. Old town restaurants serve fondue and rösti, and lakeside cafés are ideal for coffee and cake. For a budget lunch, supermarkets and bakeries near the station make an excellent picnic for the boat.

Events

The **Lucerne Carnival** (Fasnacht) in February or March is one of the wildest in Switzerland, with brass bands, masks and parades from the early hours. The **Lucerne Festival** brings world-class orchestras in summer.

Where to stay

Stay in the **old town** or near the **station** for convenience, or along the lakeshore for views. Weggis and Vitznau on the lake are quieter alternatives. Rooms fill quickly in summer and around the festival, so book early, and use the places to visit list to plan your days.