Geneva: a first-timer's guide to the city on the lake

Why go

Geneva feels different from the German-speaking cities: more French, more international, with café terraces, bakeries and a long tradition of welcoming outsiders, from Protestant refugees to modern diplomats. The lake is the city's living room, and the countryside of the Lake Geneva region, with UNESCO vineyards and castles, is on the doorstep.

The lake and the Jet d'Eau

The **Jet d'Eau**, a fountain shooting water about 140 metres into the air, is the city's emblem; walk out along the jetty to feel the spray. The lakeside promenades are lined with parks, the **Flower Clock** in the Jardin Anglais and swimming spots. The **Bains des Pâquis** is a beloved public bath on a jetty, with swimming in summer, a sauna in winter and a simple café serving fondue. Small yellow **Mouettes** water taxis cross the harbour and are part of the public transport network.

The old town

Climb to the **Vieille Ville**, the hilltop old town. **St Pierre Cathedral**, where John Calvin preached, has towers you can climb for a superb view and an archaeological site beneath it. The **Place du Bourg-de-Four**, the oldest square, is lined with cafés. Below the old town, the **Reformation Wall** in the Parc des Bastions honours Calvin and his fellow reformers.

International Geneva

The **Palais des Nations**, the UN's European headquarters, offers guided tours with a passport; book ahead and check the official schedule. Outside stands **Broken Chair**, a giant sculpture against landmines. The **International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum** across the road is powerful and well designed. Nearby **CERN**, home of the Large Hadron Collider, has a free science centre, Science Gateway, open to visitors.

Neighbourhoods

**Carouge**, south of the centre, was built by the Kingdom of Sardinia and has a Mediterranean feel, with artisans, markets and bistros. **Les Pâquis** near the station is lively and diverse, with some of the city's most affordable food. **Plainpalais** hosts a big flea market on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

Food

Try **perch fillets** from the lake, **longeole** sausage, **fondue moitié-moitié** and cardoons in winter. Geneva is also a watchmaking and chocolate city, with historic chocolatiers in the old town.

Events

The **Escalade** in December celebrates the city's defeat of a surprise attack in 1602, with costumed parades and chocolate cauldrons smashed at home. The **Fêtes de Genève** and lakeside summer events bring music and fireworks.

Day trips

Trains along the lake reach **Lausanne** and the Olympic Museum in under an hour, the terraced **Lavaux** vineyards, and **Montreux** with the island **Château de Chillon**. Annecy in France is a short bus ride away; carry your passport.

Getting around and staying

Many hotels give guests a free Geneva Transport Card for trams, buses and Mouettes during their stay; ask at check-in. Stay near **Cornavin station** or in **Les Pâquis** for convenience, on the **Rive Gauche** for shopping and the old town, or in **Carouge** for character. Geneva also has the busiest pickpocketing of any Swiss city, so keep bags closed around the station and the lake. See the full Switzerland destinations list for where to go next.