Gothenburg: canals, seafood and the west coast islands

Why go

Gothenburg is the place to eat seafood in Sweden. Prawns, crayfish, oysters, lobster and fresh fish come straight from the cold, clean waters of the west coast. The city is also very family friendly, with Liseberg and the Universeum science centre, and it has a calm, human scale that makes it easy to enjoy in a few days. It is about three hours from Stockholm on the fast train.

The main areas

**Inom Vallgraven** is the old centre inside the star-shaped canal, with the Stora Saluhallen market hall, shopping streets and Kungstorget square.

**Haga** is a cobbled quarter of wooden and stone houses, cafés and small shops, famous for giant cinnamon buns. Above it, the Skansen Kronan fortress gives views over the rooftops.

**Linnéstaden** and **Majorna** are laid back neighbourhoods with bars, vintage shops and some of the best local restaurants, near the big Slottsskogen park.

**Avenyn** is the grand boulevard running up to Götaplatsen, with the Poseidon statue, the art museum and the concert hall.

**Lindholmen** and **Eriksberg**, across the river, are former shipyards turned into new waterfront districts.

Top things to do

**Liseberg** is Scandinavia's largest amusement park, famous for its wooden roller coaster and, in winter, one of Sweden's biggest Christmas markets. **Feskekôrka**, the fish church, is a market hall shaped like a chapel where you can buy fresh seafood or eat a fish lunch. Take a **Paddan** boat tour through the canals, ducking under very low bridges.

For something free, walk in **Slottsskogen**, a large park with seals, penguins and Nordic animals, or the botanical garden next to it. The **Gothenburg Museum of Art** has a strong collection of Nordic painters, and **Universeum** combines a rainforest, an aquarium and science exhibits under one roof.

The archipelago

The southern archipelago is one of the best things about Gothenburg. Take tram 11 to Saltholmen, then a public ferry on the same ticket to car-free islands like **Styrsö**, **Vrångö**, **Brännö** and **Donsö**. Walk among smooth granite rocks, swim from small beaches and eat in island cafés. In summer it feels like a different world, only an hour from the centre.

Day trips along the coast

North of Gothenburg, the **Bohuslän** coast is bare pink granite and red fishing huts. **Marstrand** has a fortress and a sailing harbour. **Smögen** has a long wooden boardwalk lined with seafood stalls, and **Fjällbacka** has a dramatic rock gorge and links to the actress Ingrid Bergman. Buses reach these places, but schedules are thinner outside summer, so plan ahead.

Food

Try a räksmörgås, the classic open prawn sandwich, a fish lunch at Feskekôrka, and in August a crayfish party if you are invited. The city has a strong café culture, local coffee roasters and plenty of weekday lunch deals. Fine dining is excellent too, with a focus on seafood and local produce.

Where to stay and getting around

The area around the central station and Kungstorget is the easiest base. Linnéstaden suits those who want local bars and restaurants. Västtrafik trams and buses cover the city and the island ferries; pay with the Västtrafik To Go app. Flygbussarna airport buses run between Landvetter and the centre.

When to go

Late May to early September is the best time, when island cafés open, the evenings are long and the coast is at its prettiest. August brings the Kulturkalas festival and the start of crayfish season. Autumn is quieter and good for seafood, especially oysters and shellfish. In winter, Liseberg's Christmas market lights up the dark evenings from mid November, and the city is calm and cosy.