Meroe: the pyramids of the kingdom of Kush

What official advice says first

Before anything else: the UK, US, Canadian and Australian governments advise against all travel to Sudan because of the armed conflict between the Sudanese Armed Forces and the Rapid Support Forces that began in April 2023. Embassies have reduced or suspended services, consular help is extremely limited, and most travel insurance will not cover you. Read your own government's advice before you plan anything.

The kingdom of Kush

Kush was one of Africa's great ancient civilisations. Its kings ruled Egypt as the 25th Dynasty, and when power moved south, Meroe became the royal capital from around the third century BC. The Kushites smelted iron, traded with the Mediterranean and India, and developed their own Meroitic script, which is still only partly understood. Its rulers included powerful queens, known as the kandake, who led armies and commissioned monuments.

The pyramids

The royal cemeteries at Bagrawiya hold dozens of pyramids, smaller and much steeper than those of Egypt, each with a small chapel on its eastern side carved with scenes of the royals and their gods. Many were decapitated in the 1830s by an Italian treasure hunter searching for gold, which gives them their distinctive broken tops. Some chapels were restored. Walk among them early in the morning, when the sand is cool and the light turns them deep orange, or late afternoon as the shadows lengthen. Local camel owners have long offered short rides across the dunes.

The Royal City

Down by the Nile, the Royal City of Meroe has the remains of palaces, a temple of Amun, the Royal Baths and heaps of iron slag that hint at the city's industry. It is less dramatic than the pyramids but helps you understand how the capital worked.

Naqa and Musawwarat es-Sufra

South of Meroe, off a desert track, lie two extraordinary temple sites. At Naqa, the Lion Temple shows the lion god Apedemak with carved royals, beside a Roman style kiosk and the Amun Temple with its avenue of rams. Nearby Musawwarat es-Sufra has the Great Enclosure, a vast complex of courtyards and ramps with elephant carvings, whose purpose is still debated. All three sites together form the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Island of Meroe. A local well where herders water camels was always one of the highlights of the drive.

Where to stay

Before the war, the main option was a tented camp facing the pyramids, plus simple lodgings in Shendi. Specialist operators also offered desert camping. Check whether any of these operate now.

Practical tips

There is very little shade at the pyramids, so carry water, a hat, sunscreen and a scarf against blowing sand. Sand gets into everything, so protect your camera and phone. Bring cash for tickets, tea and tips, since there are no card machines. Climbing on the pyramids is not allowed and damages them. A good guide adds a great deal, explaining the chapel carvings and the story of the queens of Kush, and helps with permits at checkpoints along the way.

When and how to go

The cool season from November to February is by far the best time; from April to September daytime heat is extreme. The site is reached by road from Khartoum or Atbara, and visits need a permit and, in practice, a specialist operator. Given the war, confirm current conditions in the River Nile State with your government's advice before any plan. Pair it with Karima for a full Nubian loop, see the Sudan destinations page, or use the free trip planner.