Central Province

Kandy: a first-timer's guide to Sri Lanka's hill capital

Kandy sits in a bowl of green hills in the centre of Sri Lanka, around a lake built by its last king. It was the capital of the Kandyan kingdom until 1815 and remains the spiritual heart of Sinhalese Buddhism, home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic. It is also the gateway to the hill country and the start of the famous train ride to Ella.

Island of Kandy lake
Photo: AntanO, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Buddhist heritage, gardens, culture and the hill country train
Getting there
Train or road from Colombo, about three to four hours
Time needed
Two days
Big event
Esala Perahera, usually July or August
Dress
Shoulders and knees covered at temples, shoes off
Climate
Warmer than the hills, cooler than the coast

Why go

Kandy is where Sri Lanka's royal and Buddhist past feels most alive. Pilgrims in white carry lotus flowers to the temple, drummers sound the daily rituals, and the old town still follows the street plan of the kings. It is a UNESCO World Heritage city and a natural stop between the ancient cities of the north and the tea country to the south.

Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic

The **Sri Dalada Maligawa** holds what Buddhists believe is a tooth of the Buddha, brought to the island in the fourth century. The relic is kept in a golden casket inside an inner shrine and is never shown, but you can join the crowds during the evening **puja**, when drums and horns play and the shrine doors open. Arrive early, dress in white or light colours with shoulders and knees covered, and leave shoes at the counter. The complex also includes the old royal palace, an audience hall and museums.

Kandy Lake and the old town

The lake built by King Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe in 1807 is lined by a low cloud wall and a footpath that takes about an hour to walk round. Look out for monitor lizards, cormorants and fruit bats at dusk. The town centre has colonial era shops, the busy **Kandy Market** and the **Kandyan Arts Association** for crafts.

Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya

A short tuk tuk ride from town, the **Peradeniya gardens** cover a loop of the Mahaweli river with an orchid house, an avenue of royal palms, giant Javan fig trees and a spice garden. Allow half a day and go early to beat the heat.

Around Kandy

The **three temples loop** west of town visits Gadaladeniya, Lankathilaka and Embekke, known for its carved wooden pillars. **Bahirawakanda Vihara Buddha Statue** gives a view over the city. Tea fans can visit the **Ceylon Tea Museum** in an old factory at Hantana. **Udawattakele** forest reserve behind the temple is good for birds and a quiet walk.

Kandyan dance

Cultural shows in town halls each evening feature drummers, acrobatic dancers in silver headdresses and fire walking. They are touristy but fun and a good introduction to the traditional dance you will see in the perahera.

Esala Perahera

For ten nights around the Esala full moon, usually in July or August, the **Kandy Esala Perahera** fills the streets with decorated elephants, whip crackers, fire dancers and drummers, ending with the casket elephant. Hotels fill months ahead and prices rise, so book early. Reserved seats along the route are sold by local hotels and agents.

Where to stay

The hills around the lake have guesthouses with views, while larger hotels sit on the slopes above town. Staying a little outside the centre means quieter nights but more tuk tuk rides.

Getting there and away

Trains run from Colombo Fort to Kandy several times a day. From Kandy, the scenic hill country line climbs through Nanu Oya and Haputale to Ella. Reserved seats sell out, so book through Sri Lanka Railways as early as you can. Buses and private cars run to Sigiriya and Dambulla in about two to three hours.

How long to stay

Two days covers the temple, the lake, Peradeniya and a dance show. Add a day for the temple loop or a tea estate.

Questions about Kandy

Can you see the tooth relic in Kandy?

No, the relic stays inside a golden casket. During the evening puja the inner shrine doors open and you can see the casket.

When is the Kandy Esala Perahera?

It runs for about ten nights ending on the Esala full moon, usually in July or August. Check the exact dates with Sri Lanka Tourism each year.

What should I wear to the Temple of the Tooth?

Cover shoulders and knees, wear light colours if possible, and remove shoes and hats. Avoid clothing with Buddha images.

How do I get from Kandy to Ella?

The hill country train takes around six to seven hours through tea estates. Book reserved seats early, or travel by road in about four hours.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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