Ella and the hill country: tea, trains and mountain walks

Why go

Sri Lanka's hill country is a different world from the beaches: rolling tea gardens, women plucking leaves in bright saris, colonial bungalows and cool, misty mornings. Ella packs the best of it into walking distance, with sunrise viewpoints, a famous bridge and dozens of cafés.

The train ride

The line from **Kandy to Ella**, built by the British to carry tea, climbs through tunnels and along hillsides past Nanu Oya, the stop for Nuwara Eliya, then Pattipola, the highest station, and Haputale. The full ride takes six to seven hours. Reserved seats in the observation and second class carriages sell out weeks ahead, so book through Sri Lanka Railways as soon as booking opens, or travel in unreserved second or third class with patience. The best views are generally on the right side heading towards Ella. Hanging out of open doors is popular but dangerous; hold on firmly, and stay well back from passing trackside objects.

Nine Arch Bridge

The **Nine Arch Bridge** at Demodara is a colonial stone viaduct curving across a jungle valley. It is a short walk from town through tea. Check the train times and arrive a little early to watch a blue train cross. Stay off the tracks when a train is due.

Little Adam's Peak and Ella Rock

**Little Adam's Peak** is an easy walk of under an hour through tea gardens to a ridge with wide views, perfect for sunrise. **Ella Rock** is a longer, steeper hike of three to four hours return; the path is not always obvious, so go with a guide from your guesthouse or follow a reliable offline map.

Waterfalls and temples

**Ravana Falls** tumbles beside the road to Wellawaya. The **Ravana Cave** and the old **Dowa Rock Temple**, with a carved standing Buddha, are nearby. The legend of King Ravana from the Ramayana is woven through the area.

Tea

The **Uva Halpewatte tea factory** offers tours of the withering, rolling and drying rooms. Near Haputale, **Lipton's Seat** is the viewpoint where Thomas Lipton surveyed his estate, reached by a road through the Dambatenne plantation. Go early before the clouds come in.

Nuwara Eliya and Horton Plains

**Nuwara Eliya**, at around 1,900 metres, was the British hill station, with a golf course, red brick post office and the Victoria Park. It is the base for **Horton Plains National Park**, a high plateau of grassland and cloud forest where a loop trail leads to **World's End**, a sheer drop. Go at dawn, as mist usually rolls in by mid morning. Plastic is restricted in the park.

Food and cafés

Ella's main street is lined with cafés serving smoothie bowls, wood fired pizza and Sri Lankan rice and curry. Try a home cooked meal at your guesthouse, and a cooking class where you grind coconut and spices yourself.

Where to stay

Guesthouses on the hillsides outside the centre have the best views and quiet nights. The main street is lively and convenient but can be noisy at night.

Getting onward

From Ella, buses and cars run down to Wellawaya and on to **Udawalawe** or **Yala** for safaris, and to the south coast in about four hours.