Kapoeta: Toposa country in South Sudan's far east

Why go

The Toposa are cattle keepers who live across the dry plains of Eastern Equatoria, near the borders with Kenya and Ethiopia. Women wear layers of bright beaded necklaces and skirts, and men carry carved stools that double as headrests. Villages are clusters of round homes surrounded by thorn fences, and life follows the cattle, the rains and the markets.

Kapoeta itself is the hub. Its market draws Toposa, traders from Kenya and Uganda and people from across the region, selling everything from grain and goats to beads, metalwork and tools. Artisanal gold panning in seasonal riverbeds nearby has also brought new activity to the area.

Getting there

Kapoeta lies far east of Juba, reached by road via Torit, the capital of Eastern Equatoria. The trip takes a full day or more, on roads that range from fair to very rough, with many checkpoints. Torit makes a natural stop: it is the gateway to the Imatong Mountains and Mount Kinyeti, the highest peak in South Sudan. Some operators also approach Kapoeta from the Kenyan side via Lokichoggio, but check border rules and advice carefully before considering it.

What to do

• **Kapoeta market**: busiest in the morning; go with your guide and ask before photographing.
• **Toposa villages**: visits are arranged with community permission through your guide, who will explain customs and any agreed contribution.
• **Beadwork**: beaded jewellery is a living craft here, and buying directly from makers is a respectful way to support families.
• **Torit and the Imatongs**: a stop at Torit adds green hills and cooler air to a hot, dry journey.

Practical tips

This is a trip for a specialist operator with local knowledge, reliable vehicles, spare fuel and good relationships with communities. Accommodation is basic: simple guesthouses or camping. Bring cash in clean US dollars, water, food, sun protection, a torch and a basic medical kit, and take malaria prevention seriously. Mobile coverage can be patchy.

Respect and safety

Cattle raiding and armed clashes between communities happen in parts of Eastern Equatoria, and government travel advice covers the whole route. Travel only in daylight, follow your operator's advice and check the latest situation before setting out. Ask before photographing anyone, and never photograph checkpoints, soldiers or officials.

A suggested plan

**Day one**: drive from Juba to Torit, a journey of several hours, and spend the night there. **Day two**: continue east to Kapoeta, arriving in time for an afternoon walk in town with your guide. **Day three**: visit the market in the morning and a Toposa village in the afternoon, by arrangement. **Day four**: a second village or a quieter day, depending on what your guide advises. **Days five and six**: return west through Torit to Juba, perhaps with a detour towards the Imatong foothills if conditions allow.

What to pack

Kapoeta is hot, dry and dusty for much of the year. Bring loose long clothing, a wide-brimmed hat, good sunglasses, a scarf for dust, plenty of water and rehydration salts. A sleeping bag liner and a torch help in basic guesthouses. Carry spare phone batteries, a paper copy of your documents and small, clean US dollar notes. Gifts handed out at random cause problems, so discuss with your guide how best to give back to the community.