Laas Geel: Somaliland's ancient painted caves

Why Laas Geel matters

The paintings were known to local herders for generations but only came to wider attention after a French archaeological team documented them in 2002. What makes them special is the colour: in many shelters the paint looks almost fresh, protected by overhanging rock. The cattle are shown with decorated necks and wide horns, often beside small human figures, suggesting a herding culture that honoured its animals. Experts usually date the art to somewhere between five and ten thousand years ago, and the site is on Somaliland's list for World Heritage recognition.

What you see

A guardian or guide walks you up a short, rocky path to several shelters at different heights. The largest panels are a few minutes from the car park, while others need a little scrambling. You can view the art up close but must never touch it, use flash or splash water on it. The view across the valley, with camels grazing among acacia trees, is beautiful in early light.

Getting there

Laas Geel is about an hour from Hargeisa on the Berbera road, followed by a rough track. Foreign visitors normally need a permit from the tourism ministry and a police escort for travel outside Hargeisa, both usually arranged by your hotel or a local tour operator. Allow half a day in total. Many visitors combine it with the drive to Berbera, stopping on the way.

Fees and rules

There is an entrance fee for foreign visitors, paid in cash, and the escort and driver are paid separately. Ask your hotel to confirm the current arrangements and amounts before you set off. Photography without flash is generally allowed, and a small tip for the guardian is appreciated.

When to go

Go early in the morning, when it is cooler and the light on the paintings is soft. The cooler months from November to March are most comfortable. After rain, the track can be muddy and slow.

What to bring

Bring water, a hat, sunscreen, closed shoes for the rocks and cash in small notes. There are basic facilities at most, so eat before or after in Hargeisa.

Respecting the site

The paintings survived thousands of years but are fragile now that visitor numbers are growing. Stay on paths, do not touch the walls, keep children close, and leave nothing behind. Your entrance fee helps the guardians who protect the site.

Plan your visit

See our guide to Hargeisa for your base, our places to visit list for more nearby sights, and the free trip planner to fit Laas Geel into your days.

What else is nearby

Other rock art sites exist in the region, including Dhubato a short way to the north, and the surrounding plains are good for spotting camels, goats and birds such as hornbills and starlings. On the way back toward Hargeisa, roadside stalls sell sweet tea and fresh camel milk. If you are continuing to the coast, the road climbs past the turn to Sheikh before dropping to the heat of Berbera.

Practical tips

Carry your passport and permit, as checkpoints on the road are common. Settle prices for the driver and escort in advance and in writing if you can. Wear modest clothing, and bring a scarf for sun and dust.