Berbera: old port, coral stone and quiet beaches

The old town

Berbera's old quarter, near the original harbour, is a maze of coral stone and timber buildings, many in ruins, with carved doors, balconies and mosques. It reflects the town's past as a seasonal trading fair where caravans met ships from Arabia and India. Walk it in the early morning or late afternoon with a local guide, and ask before photographing homes or people.

Beaches

Batalaale beach, just east of town, is the main stretch: long, wide and almost empty on weekdays, with a few simple restaurants and hotels behind it. The water is warm and clear, and there is good snorkelling over nearby reefs on calm days. Women usually swim fully covered, and visitors should dress modestly on the beach too. Swim where locals do and watch for currents.

Fish and food

The fish market by the harbour is the place to see the morning catch, and many restaurants will grill fresh fish, often split and spiced, served with rice, chapati and lime. Try local tea and fruit juices, and expect simple, generous meals rather than fine dining.

The port and the new Berbera

A large modern port and economic zone has grown on the edge of town, and the old military airport has been reopened for civilian use, though flights are limited. Expect trucks, construction and change, and do not photograph port, military or government sites.

The heat

Berbera is one of the hottest places in the region. From about May to September, daytime temperatures are fierce and hot winds blow. Most people who live in the old town historically moved inland to the hills for the summer. Visit between November and March if you can, and plan outdoor time for early morning and evening.

Where to stay

There are a handful of beachfront hotels and simple guesthouses on Batalaale and in town, some with air conditioning and generators. Book ahead, confirm power and water, and ask if they can arrange your escort and transport from Hargeisa.

Getting there

Most people drive from Hargeisa on the paved road, passing Laas Geel and the Sheikh mountains turn off. Foreigners usually need a police escort outside Hargeisa, arranged through hotels or tour operators. Check whether any scheduled flights serve Berbera when you travel.

Plan your visit

See our places to visit list for Berbera's beaches and restaurants, and use the free trip planner to fit the coast into your trip.

Practical tips

Bring cash in US dollars and set up Zaad mobile money in Hargeisa before you come, as there are no international bank machines you can rely on. Drink plenty of water and carry rehydration salts in the hot months. Respect prayer times, when shops and restaurants close briefly. Fridays are quiet in the morning. Keep your passport and escort paperwork with you on the road.

Combining Berbera with the rest of your trip

A classic route is to spend two or three days in Hargeisa, visit Laas Geel on the way to the coast, and spend one or two nights in Berbera before driving or flying back. With more time, the cool mountain town of Sheikh and the escarpment road make a beautiful detour. Remote coastal spots further east need careful planning and local advice.