Hargeisa: a first-timer's guide to Somaliland's capital

Understanding Somaliland

Somaliland declared its independence in 1991 and runs its own government, police, visa and currency, though it is not widely recognised internationally and the federal government considers it part of Somalia. For visitors, the practical points are that Somaliland has its own entry rules, uses the Somaliland shilling alongside US dollars, and has a different security picture from the south. Official advice from some governments still warns against travel, while others draw a distinction for parts of Somaliland, so read yours carefully.

The MiG memorial and city centre

The most photographed sight is the Hargeisa War Memorial, a fighter jet mounted on a plinth in the city centre, remembering the destruction of the city in 1988. The painted panels around it tell that story. Close by are the main mosque, Jamaca Weyn, and the busy central streets.

Markets and money changers

Hargeisa's markets are the heart of the city. The central Waheen market sells everything from spices and incense to cloth and electronics. Along the main streets, money changers sit beside high stacks of Somaliland shilling notes, an unforgettable sight, though most people now pay with Zaad mobile money. On the edge of town, the livestock market draws herders with camels, goats and sheep from early morning: go early, ask before photographing people and watch where you step.

Culture and the book fair

The Hargeisa Cultural Centre hosts a library, archive and events, and organises the Hargeisa International Book Fair, usually held in the northern summer, one of the largest cultural festivals in the Horn of Africa. Saryan Museum is a small private museum of Somali objects and history worth asking about.

Food

Try camel meat with rice, suqaar, canjeero pancakes with ghee and sugar for breakfast, sambuusa, and sweet spiced tea. Hotel restaurants serve Somali, Ethiopian, Italian influenced and international dishes, and juice bars and cafés are everywhere. Restaurants close for prayer times and alcohol is not available.

Where to stay

Hargeisa has a good range of local hotels, from simple guesthouses to comfortable business hotels near the airport road and the centre, many with restaurants and generators. Book a hotel that can arrange airport pickup through its own staff and a driver for day trips.

Day trips

The obvious trip is Laas Geel, about an hour away by road. Many visitors also continue to Berbera on the coast. Travel outside the city usually requires a police escort or permit for foreigners, which hotels and tour operators arrange.

Plan your time

Use our places to visit list for hotels, cafés and markets, and the free trip planner to shape a route.

When to go

Thanks to its altitude, Hargeisa is warm rather than scorching for most of the year, and evenings can be cool. The months from November to March are dry and comfortable. The rains usually come in spring and late summer, turning the hills briefly green. July is busy with the book fair and diaspora visitors, and the eighteenth of May brings national day parades.

Practical tips

Buy a local SIM on arrival and set up Zaad mobile money, which makes daily payments easy. Dress modestly, with women covering their hair and men in long trousers. Fridays are the weekly rest day, when many shops close until the afternoon. Do not photograph government buildings or police, and ask before photographing people in the markets. Keep copies of your passport and visa with you.