Casamance: Senegal's green and gentle south

Ziguinchor

**Ziguinchor** is the regional capital, a relaxed river port with faded Portuguese and French era buildings, busy markets and a lively music scene. It is a good place to start: visit the **Marché Saint-Maur** and the artisans' market, stroll the riverfront at sunset and take a pirogue trip on the Casamance River to the mangroves and island villages.

Cap Skirring

On the Atlantic coast, **Cap Skirring** is Casamance's beach resort, with long stretches of fine white sand, palm trees and calm seas in the dry season. It ranges from a classic Club Med style resort to simple beach campements. The fishing village of **Boucotte** and the quieter beaches to the north are lovely for walks.

Oussouye and the Jola kingdom

**Oussouye** is a small town at the heart of Jola country and seat of the **King of Oussouye**, a spiritual leader whose role is to keep peace and harmony. Visits to the royal forest can sometimes be arranged through local guides, with respect for customs. Around Oussouye, look for traditional **impluvium houses**, round clay houses built around a central basin that collects rainwater, and the **cases à étage**, two storey mud houses, at Mlomp.

The river and islands

Pirogue trips explore the creeks and bolongs of the Casamance River, visiting villages such as **Carabane**, an island with a colonial past, an old church and a quiet beach, and **Elinkine**, a fishing port. Birding is excellent, and dolphins are sometimes seen near the river mouth.

Abéné and Kafountine

North of the river, **Kafountine** has a huge fish smoking beach and a long coastline, and **Abéné** hosts the **Abéné Festival** of music and dance, traditionally held around the turn of the year. Check that it is running before planning around it.

Food and culture

Casamance is the home of **yassa**, and you will also find oysters harvested from the mangroves, palm wine tapped in the villages, fresh mangoes and cashews in season. Jola culture is rich in ritual: wrestling after the rice harvest, masked **kumpo** dancers and sacred forests closed to outsiders. Ask before entering shrines or photographing ceremonies, and follow your guide's lead.

Getting there

• **Ferry**: the overnight ferry between Dakar and Ziguinchor, operated by COSAMA, is the classic way to arrive. Book cabins well in advance and check the timetable on the official site.
• **Flights**: domestic flights connect Dakar with Ziguinchor and, in season, Cap Skirring, and some seasonal charters fly to Cap Skirring from Europe.
• **Road**: driving from Dakar via the Senegambia Bridge across The Gambia takes most of a day; going around through Tambacounda takes much longer.

Safety

Casamance had a long running low level separatist conflict, and while peace has largely returned and tourism has recovered, some governments still advise caution in certain areas, especially near the borders with The Gambia and Guinea-Bissau and away from main roads. Read your government's current travel advice, stick to main routes and avoid travelling by road after dark.

Practical tips

ATMs are in Ziguinchor and Cap Skirring, but carry cash for villages. Many smaller lodges close or scale back in the rainy season from about July to October. Bring repellent and follow malaria advice, as the south is green, wet and warm.