Riyadh: a first-timer's guide to Saudi Arabia's capital

Why visit Riyadh

For years Riyadh was a city people passed through for work. Today it is worth a stay in its own right. The restored district of Diriyah is one of the most impressive heritage sites in the Gulf, the National Museum tells the story of Arabia from the Stone Age to the present, and the winter Riyadh Season fills the city with concerts, food markets and sporting events. Restaurants and coffee shops open late, and the evenings, once the heat breaks, are when the city comes alive.

Diriyah and At-Turaif

On the north western edge of the city, Diriyah was the seat of the first Saudi state in the eighteenth century. Its At-Turaif district is a UNESCO World Heritage Site: a maze of mud brick palaces, mosques and walls above the Wadi Hanifah, with museums inside the restored buildings. Next to it, Bujairi Terrace gathers restaurants and cafés overlooking the old town. Come in the late afternoon, walk At-Turaif as the light turns gold, then eat on the terrace.

Old Riyadh

Masmak Fortress, a squat mud and stone fort in the Al Dirah district, is where King Abdulaziz retook Riyadh in 1902. Around it lie the Deira souqs and Souq Al Zal, the city's oldest market, good for carpets, incense, traditional clothes and antiques. Further north, the King Abdulaziz Historical Center holds the National Museum and the Murabba Palace in leafy grounds.

Modern Riyadh

The Kingdom Centre tower has a sky bridge with sweeping views, and Boulevard City and the King Abdullah Financial District show the new face of the city. Via Riyadh and the Diplomatic Quarter are calmer, greener places to eat out.

Day trips

The Edge of the World, Jebel Fihrayn, is a sheer escarpment about two hours north west of the city, with a view across an ancient seabed that feels endless. You need a four wheel drive and an experienced driver for the final track, so most visitors join a tour. Closer in, the red sand dunes of the Red Sands area are popular for quad biking and sunset picnics.

Food

Try kabsa, the national rice dish with spiced lamb or chicken, jareesh made from cracked wheat, and dates with Saudi coffee scented with cardamom. Najd Village is a classic place for traditional dishes on floor cushions. The city's café scene is excellent, with specialty roasters in almost every district.

Where to stay

Stay in Olaya or near King Fahd Road for the main business hotels and easy metro access, or near Diriyah for heritage and calm. Budget and mid-range hotels are plentiful across the north of the city.

Getting around

The Riyadh Metro opened in stages from late 2024 and links the airport, Olaya, the financial district and many neighbourhoods. Ride hailing apps such as Uber and Careem fill the gaps. Distances are long and walking in the heat is hard, so plan days by area.

Practical tips

The weekend is Friday and Saturday, and Thursday night is the busiest night out. Many sites open in the afternoon and stay open late, so plan sightseeing for late afternoon and evening and rest through the midday heat. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered; foreign women do not need to wear an abaya or headscarf. Carry a card or phone wallet, as almost everywhere takes contactless payment. During Riyadh Season, traffic around Boulevard City can be very heavy, so use the metro where you can and leave extra time.

A suggested two days

On day one, visit the National Museum and Murabba Palace in the morning, then Masmak Fortress and Souq Al Zal in the late afternoon, and dinner in Al Dirah or Olaya. On day two, rest in the morning, head to Diriyah for a late afternoon walk around At-Turaif, and eat at Bujairi Terrace as the walls light up.