Jeddah: a first-timer's guide to the Red Sea city

Why visit Jeddah

Jeddah mixes a UNESCO listed old town, a long seafront, a strong arts scene and some of the best diving in the Red Sea. It is also where most Umrah pilgrims arrive, so you will see people from every corner of the Muslim world. The city stretches for many kilometres along the coast, with the old town in the south and newer districts, malls and beach clubs to the north.

Al Balad

The historic district of Al Balad is the heart of any visit. Its tall houses are built from coral stone and decorated with roshan, the carved wooden window boxes that kept rooms cool and private. Nasseef House, where King Abdulaziz once stayed, is the best known, and several houses have been restored as museums and galleries. The souqs here, including Souq Al Alawi, sell spices, perfumes, fabrics and gold. Restoration work is ongoing, so some lanes may be closed. Come in the evening, when the lanterns light up and the street food stalls open.

The Corniche

The Jeddah Corniche runs for about thirty kilometres. The central stretch has parks, sculptures and the Floating Mosque, Al Rahma Mosque, built on stilts over the water. The King Fahd Fountain, one of the tallest fountains in the world, shoots water high above the sea at night. Families picnic on the grass late into the evening.

Art and culture

Jeddah has a long public art tradition, with sculptures dotted across the city. Hayy Jameel is a lively arts complex with galleries, a cinema and cafés. The Red Sea International Film Festival takes place in Al Balad each December.

The Red Sea

Reefs start close to shore, and dive centres north of the city run boat trips to coral gardens and wrecks. Obhur, north of the centre, is the place for beach clubs where swimwear is allowed. Public beaches expect modest dress.

Food

Jeddah is famous for seafood, especially grilled fish at the fish market restaurants, and for street food like mutabbaq, a stuffed flatbread, and ful with fresh bread for breakfast. The Al Baik fried chicken chain started here and has a loyal following. Hejazi dishes such as saleeg, rice cooked in milk, are worth seeking out.

Where to stay

Stay near the Corniche or in Al Hamra for the classic seafront hotels, in Al Rawdah or Al Andalus for restaurants, or north towards Obhur for beach resorts.

Getting around

Ride hailing apps are the easiest way to move around. The Haramain High Speed Railway links Jeddah with Makkah and Madinah, with a station at the airport. Traffic can be heavy in the evening, so leave time.

Practical tips

Jeddah is hot and humid for much of the year, so start early or go out after sunset, as locals do. Dress modestly in the old town and malls. Al Balad is busy and lively in the evenings, especially at weekends, and much quieter in the morning. During Ramadan and the Hajj season, the airport and roads towards Makkah are extremely busy, so build in extra time. Keep an eye on the Formula One weekend in winter, when hotels on the Corniche fill.

A suggested two days

On day one, explore Al Balad in the late afternoon, visit Nasseef House, shop in Souq Al Alawi and eat street food as the lanterns come on. On day two, take a morning boat trip or dive from Obhur, rest, then walk the Corniche to the Floating Mosque at sunset and watch the King Fahd Fountain after dark.