AlUla: a first-timer's guide to Hegra and the canyons

Why visit AlUla

AlUla has been a crossroads for thousands of years, on the incense route between southern Arabia and the Mediterranean. Kingdoms rose here, left inscriptions and tombs in the rock, and faded. For a long time it was almost unknown to outsiders. Now it is the kingdom's showcase destination, carefully managed by the Royal Commission for AlUla, with timed tickets, trained guides and a growing list of hotels.

Hegra

Hegra, also called Mada'in Salih, was the second city of the Nabataean kingdom and became Saudi Arabia's first UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. Its tombs are carved into free standing sandstone outcrops, with elaborate facades of steps, eagles and inscriptions. The best known, Qasr al Farid, stands alone like a lonely castle. Visits are by guided tour only, usually by bus with stops at the main tomb groups, and they must be booked ahead on the official Experience AlUla website.

AlUla Old Town and the oasis

The old town is a warren of more than nine hundred mud brick houses on a rocky ridge, lived in until the late twentieth century. Restored lanes now hold shops and cafés, and the castle on the hill gives a fine view over the palm groves. The oasis itself is lovely on foot or by bike, with shaded trails through farms.

Dadan, Jabal Ikmah and Elephant Rock

Dadan was the capital of the Dadanite and Lihyanite kingdoms, and its lion tombs are cut high in the cliff. Nearby Jabal Ikmah is an open air library of ancient inscriptions in a quiet canyon. Elephant Rock, Jabal AlFil, is a giant natural arch shaped like an elephant, best at sunset when a lounge area opens at its base.

Maraya and the desert

Maraya is a concert hall wrapped entirely in mirrors, reflecting the canyon around it. Beyond the town, the Sharaan reserve and the valleys of Harrat Uwayrid offer hikes, rock climbing, hot air balloon flights in season and some of the clearest night skies in the region.

Where to stay

AlUla has a wide range of stays, from luxury resorts tucked into canyons to desert camps and mid-range hotels in town. Rooms fill fast in winter and around festivals, so book early.

Getting there and around

AlUla International Airport has domestic flights from Riyadh and Jeddah, plus some seasonal international routes. Sites are spread out, so you need tours, a hop on hop off bus when running, ride hailing or a hired driver. Some dates close sites for events, so check before you plan each day.

Practical tips

Book Hegra tours, experiences and restaurants before you arrive, as walk ups are often turned away in high season. Distances between sites are long, so group them by area: Hegra in the north, the Old Town and Dadan in the centre, Elephant Rock to the north east. Bring layers, a hat, sunscreen and sturdy shoes. Mobile signal can be weak in the canyons. Respect site rules: do not climb on tombs or touch inscriptions, and keep drones grounded without permission.

A suggested three days

Day one: Old Town in the morning, Dadan and Jabal Ikmah in the afternoon. Day two: Hegra on a morning tour, rest, then Elephant Rock at sunset. Day three: a hike or balloon flight, Maraya and the oasis trails.