The leeward coast of St. Vincent: waterfalls, bays and parrots

Why go

This coast is the classic island tour. In a single day you can walk in rainforest, see ancient rock carvings, eat fresh fish by a film set and swim beneath a waterfall. It is also where St. Vincent feels most traditional: villages such as Layou and Barrouallie still revolve around the morning catch, and you will often have bays almost to yourself.

The Vermont Nature Trail

Inland from Buccament Bay, the **Vermont Nature Trail** loops through the Buccament Valley forest reserve. It is a moderate walk of a couple of hours with a viewing platform where, early in the morning or late in the afternoon, you have a good chance of seeing the **St. Vincent parrot**, the national bird, found nowhere else. Bring insect repellent and a light rain jacket, since showers are common in the hills.

Layou and Barrouallie

The fishing village of **Layou** has a petroglyph park where Amerindian carvings decorate a boulder near the river. Further on, **Barrouallie** is known for its own petroglyphs and for a traditional, and controversial, hunt for small whales known locally as blackfish. Visitors should know this tradition exists and decide for themselves about food served there.

Wallilabou Bay

Wallilabou is the bay that played Port Royal in the first Pirates of the Caribbean film. Some of the wooden set still stands on the jetty, and the **Wallilabou Anchorage** restaurant and bar makes a classic lunch stop. Yachts moor in the bay, and boat boys may offer to help with lines: agree any fee clearly before accepting help.

Cumberland Bay

North of Wallilabou, **Cumberland Bay** is a deep anchorage of black sand and coconut palms with steep forest above. It is a peaceful place for a swim and a rum punch at one of the small beach bars.

Dark View Falls and Trinity Falls

Near Richmond, **Dark View Falls** is a pair of waterfalls reached by a short path and a bamboo bridge across the river. The lower fall has a pool deep enough for a cool dip. Further into the hills, **Trinity Falls** is more demanding, with a rugged trail into a narrow volcanic gorge. Go with a local guide and avoid it after heavy rain.

Richmond and Chateaubelair

The road ends near **Richmond**, where a wild black sand beach looks up to the volcano. **Chateaubelair** is the base for the long western trail up La Soufriere and for boats north to the **Falls of Baleine**, a tall waterfall on the island's tip that can only be reached from the sea.

By sea

Many visitors see this coast on a day boat from the Villa area. Trips usually stop to snorkel, look for dolphins and pilot whales, call at Wallilabou and end at the Falls of Baleine. It is a fun option for families and avoids the winding roads.

Practical tips

The leeward road is narrow, steep and full of bends. A local taxi tour is the most relaxing option, and drivers know the best stops. Minibuses run up the coast from Little Tokyo in Kingstown, but services thin out in the late afternoon. Take cash for entry to nature sites, which is collected by the forestry and national parks authorities. The 2021 eruption of La Soufriere damaged the far north, so check current access to sites around Richmond and Chateaubelair before you go.