Vieux Fort: a first-timer's guide to Saint Lucia's quiet south

Why go

Vieux Fort makes sense for two kinds of traveller: those who want an easy first or last night near the airport, and those who want a quieter, more local corner of the island. The south is drier and breezier than the rest of Saint Lucia, with open views across to Saint Vincent on clear days.

Anse de Sables

**Anse de Sables** is a long beach facing the Atlantic trade winds, which makes it the island's top spot for **kitesurfing** and windsurfing from roughly December to June. Schools on the beach offer lessons for beginners. The water is choppier than on the west coast, so watch the conditions before swimming, especially with children.

The Maria Islands

Just offshore lie the **Maria Islands Nature Reserve**, two small islands that are home to rare species found nowhere else, including the Saint Lucia whiptail lizard and the Saint Lucia racer, one of the world's rarest snakes. They are also an important seabird nesting site. Access is restricted and controlled by the Saint Lucia National Trust, and visits are usually only possible outside the nesting season, so ask the Trust in advance.

Moule à Chique

The headland of **Moule à Chique**, at the southern tip, is topped by a lighthouse and gives sweeping views over Vieux Fort, the airport, the Maria Islands and, in good weather, Saint Vincent. The road up is steep and narrow, so go by taxi.

Savannes Bay and the mangroves

North of town, **Savannes Bay** is a protected area of mangroves, sea grass and shallow water important for fish and birds, and a quiet place for birdwatching. Nearby, the **Mankòté Mangrove** is one of the largest mangrove areas on the island.

Laborie and Choiseul

West of Vieux Fort, the fishing village of **Laborie** has a pretty beach, colourful houses and a calm, community feel. Further along, **Choiseul** is known for pottery and crafts, with the **Choiseul Arts and Crafts Centre** and roadside potters at **Saltibus** and **Victoria**. The road between Choiseul and Soufrière passes through some of the island's least visited countryside.

The east coast road

Driving north from Vieux Fort, the east coast passes through **Micoud** and **Dennery**, where the Saturday **Dennery fish fry** draws a lively local crowd. Inland from Micoud, the **Mamiku Gardens** and the **Latille Gardens and waterfall** are quiet stops for nature lovers.

Food

Vieux Fort is the place for simple local cooking: fish, chicken, bakes, roti and stewed provisions from small restaurants and street stalls, plus beach bars along Anse de Sables. Resort dining is found at the all inclusive hotels just outside town.

Getting there and around

Hewanorra is minutes away, so a night here takes the pressure off early departures and late arrivals. Minibuses run from Vieux Fort to Castries along both the east and west coast roads, and to Laborie and Choiseul. Taxis wait at the airport and in town.

Staying safe

The south is generally relaxed for visitors. As anywhere, avoid walking in quiet areas after dark and keep valuables out of sight on the beach.

Where to stay

There are a few all inclusive resorts near the airport and Anse de Sables, small guest houses and apartments in town and around Laborie, and villas on the hills. It is not a nightlife destination, but it is peaceful.