Rodney Bay: a first-timer's guide to Saint Lucia's lively north

Why go

Rodney Bay combines the island's best known beach with its most convenient base. Within a short walk or taxi ride you have sand, water sports, a marina full of yachts, supermarkets, banks, malls and dozens of places to eat. The atmosphere is relaxed rather than glitzy, and Gros Islet next door keeps it rooted in local life.

Reduit Beach

**Reduit Beach** is a long curve of golden sand with calm, clear water that is good for swimming most of the year. Hotels back much of it, but the whole beach is public and there are access points from the main road. Water sports operators rent kayaks and paddleboards, and there are beach bars and restaurants along its length.

Pigeon Island National Landmark

At the northern end of the bay, **Pigeon Island** was once a real island and is now joined to the mainland by a causeway. It is run by the Saint Lucia National Trust and combines history and nature: the ruins of **Fort Rodney**, British barracks and a small interpretation centre, plus two hilltops with sweeping views. The climb to **Signal Peak** takes about twenty to thirty minutes and looks across the channel to Martinique on clear days. There are two small beaches inside the park for a swim afterwards. The park charges an entry fee, and it hosts the main stage of the Saint Lucia Jazz and Arts Festival in May.

Gros Islet

**Gros Islet** is a traditional fishing town of narrow streets and small wooden houses. Every Friday night it hosts the island's most famous **street party**, often called the jump up. From around dusk, stalls grill fish, chicken and lobster in season, sound systems line the streets and locals and visitors dance until late. It is fun and generally good natured, but keep valuables to a minimum, watch your drink and use a known taxi to get back. The town also has a quieter, more local beach.

Cap Estate and the north tip

North of Gros Islet, **Cap Estate** is an area of villas, the island's older golf course and some upmarket resorts. **Cas en Bas** on the Atlantic side is the island's main kitesurfing spot, with a simple beach bar and walking trails to Donkey Beach. Further along the coast, the **Cabot Saint Lucia** development at Point Hardy has a cliff top golf course.

The marina

**Rodney Bay Marina** is a major yachting hub and the finish of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers each December. Its waterfront has restaurants and bars, and it is the starting point for many boat trips, from sunset cruises to day sails down the coast to Soufrière and the Pitons.

Food and nightlife

The Rodney Bay village strip, along the main road behind Reduit Beach, has the island's biggest choice of restaurants, from fish and Creole cooking to Indian, Italian and steakhouses, plus bars and a casino. Friday belongs to Gros Islet, but there is something on most nights.

Getting there and around

From George F. L. Charles Airport near Castries, Rodney Bay is a short taxi ride outside rush hour. From Hewanorra in the far south, allow well over an hour, often closer to two. Minibuses run frequently along the main road to Castries in daytime, and taxis wait at hotels and the malls. Agree the fare before you get in.

Where to stay

There is everything from large all inclusive resorts on Reduit Beach to mid-range hotels in the village and apartments near the marina. Stay near the beach for convenience, or in Cap Estate for quiet and space.