Basseterre: a first-timer's guide to the capital of St Kitts

Why go

The beaches get the attention, but Basseterre is where you feel everyday Kittitian life. Office workers queue for lunch at cookshops, minibuses with painted names pull out of the bus stops with music playing, and on Saturday the market fills with farmers from across the island. In a few streets you can see the story of the federation, from French and English colonists to sugar, slavery, emancipation and independence in 1983.

The main sights

Start at **the Circus**, a small roundabout modelled on Piccadilly Circus in London, with the green cast iron **Berkeley Memorial** clock and fountain in the middle. Balconied restaurants around it are perfect for watching the town go by.

A short walk east is **Independence Square**, once called Pall Mall Square. Enslaved Africans were sold here, and today it is a quiet garden with a fountain, framed by Georgian houses and the twin towers of the **Immaculate Conception Co-Cathedral**. Take a moment here, because this is one of the most significant places in the islands' history.

On the waterfront, the **National Museum** occupies the old Treasury Building, a handsome stone structure with an arch that once served as the gateway for arrivals by sea. Its displays cover Kalinago settlement, the sugar era, the struggle for workers' rights and independence. Nearby **St. George's Anglican Church** stands on the site of an early French church and has been rebuilt after fire, earthquake and hurricane.

Port Zante and the waterfront

**Port Zante** is the cruise pier and shopping area, with duty free jewellery, watches, rum and souvenir shops. When several ships are in, the waterfront gets very busy, so explore the rest of town early or late. The **ferry terminal** for Nevis is a short walk along Bay Road, and the **public market** sits nearby, busiest on Saturday mornings with fruit, ground provisions, hot pepper sauce and fresh fish.

Food

Basseterre is the best place to try local food at local prices. Look for **stewed saltfish** with spicy plantain, coconut dumplings and seasoned breadfruit, the national dish, as well as **goat water**, a rich, peppery goat stew served with bread. Cookshops and lunch counters around the market and Fort Street sell rice and peas, macaroni pie and fried chicken. **Ballahoo** on the Circus is a classic balcony restaurant, and **El Fredo's** is a local favourite for hearty plates. For a smarter night, head to Frigate Bay or the peninsula.

Getting around

The centre is easily walkable, though the midday sun is strong and pavements can be narrow. Licensed taxis wait at the Circus, Port Zante and the airport, and rates for common routes are fixed by the taxi association, so confirm the fare before you set off. Local minibuses, marked with H on the number plate, run from bus stops near the town centre around the island during the day and are cheap and friendly, but they thin out in the evening and on Sundays.

Where to stay

Few visitors sleep in Basseterre itself, because Frigate Bay is only a few minutes away. Those who do usually choose the **Ocean Terrace Inn**, on the hill at Fortlands with views over the bay, or simple guesthouses for business trips and family visits. Staying in town works well if you are catching an early ferry to Nevis.

Safety and practical tips

Basseterre is generally relaxed in the day. As in any town, keep phones and bags close in crowds, avoid walking alone in quiet streets late at night, and take a taxi back to your hotel after dark. Banks and ATMs are on and around the Circus and Bank Street. Shops close early on Saturday afternoon and much of town is quiet on Sunday.

Combine it with

Spend the morning in town, then ride the **St Kitts Scenic Railway**, which departs from Needsmust near the airport, or take the afternoon ferry to Nevis. In the evening, head to the beach bars of Frigate Bay.