Bergen: a first-timer's guide to the gateway to the fjords

Why go

Bergen gives you a real city and wild nature side by side. You can eat fish cakes at the harbour in the morning, ride a funicular up a mountain at lunch and be on a fjord cruise by afternoon. Locals are proud and outgoing, the music and student scene is strong, and the old town is one of the prettiest in Scandinavia. It is also the end of the Bergen Railway from Oslo, one of the great train journeys in Europe.

The main sights

**Bryggen**, the old Hanseatic wharf, is a row of leaning wooden buildings along the harbour. Walk the narrow passages behind the facades, then learn the history at the **Bryggens Museum** and the **Hanseatic Museum**. Across the harbour, the **Fish Market** sells seafood, sandwiches and cooked meals, and the indoor hall is open all year.

The **Fløibanen funicular** climbs from the centre to **Mount Fløyen** in a few minutes, with views over the city, easy forest trails and a lake. For a bigger hike, the **Ulriken** cable car goes up the highest of the seven mountains, and fit walkers can cross the open ridge between Ulriken and Fløyen in good weather. **KODE** art museums around the Lille Lungegårdsvann lake hold works by Munch and the composer Edvard Grieg's world is explored at **Troldhaugen**, his lakeside villa south of town, with concerts in summer.

Fjord trips from Bergen

Most visitors take at least one fjord day. The popular **Norway in a Nutshell** style route combines the Bergen Railway, the Flåm Railway and a cruise on the narrow, UNESCO listed **Nærøyfjord**, returning by bus and train. You can book it as a package or put the same legs together yourself on the Vy and local operators' sites. Shorter options include the **Mostraumen** cruise through Osterfjord, and in summer day trips run to the **Hardangerfjord**, famous for fruit orchards, cider and waterfalls.

Neighbourhoods

**Bryggen** and the area around the **Vågen** harbour are the historic heart. **Nordnes** is a peninsula of white wooden houses, a park and an outdoor saltwater pool. **Sandviken** has old wharf houses and quiet lanes, and **Marken** is a cobbled street of cafés. The area around **Nygårdshøyden** and the university is young and lively.

Food and drink

Bergen is a seafood city. Try **fiskesuppe**, a creamy Bergen fish soup, fish cakes from a local fishmonger, and fresh shrimp. The local cinnamon roll, **skillingsbolle**, is a must at a bakery. Craft breweries and cosy bars sit around the harbour and Vaskerelven. For value, look for lunch menus, bakeries and supermarket picnics.

The weather

Bergen is one of the wettest cities in Europe, with rain on a large share of days. Pack a proper waterproof jacket and shoes, check the forecast daily, and save mountain walks for clear spells. The rain makes the green hills and waterfalls spectacular, so do not let it put you off.

Where to stay

Stay in the centre near **Bryggen**, **Torgallmenningen** or the **railway station**, where everything is walkable. Nordnes and Sandviken are quieter and charming. Book early for summer, when cruise ships and fjord travellers fill the city.

Getting around

The **Bybanen** light rail runs from the airport to the centre. The centre is small enough to walk, and buses reach outlying sights. Express boats leave from Strandkaien for the Sognefjord and Hardanger.