San Juan del Sur: surf, sunsets and a fishing bay

Why go to San Juan del Sur

San Juan del Sur is the easiest place in Nicaragua to combine a beach holiday with a sociable town. The bay itself is calm and good for a swim, a sunset walk and a fresh fish dinner, while the surf beaches a short drive away have waves for every level. It is close to the Costa Rica border and to the Ometepe ferry, so it fits neatly into a loop of the south.

The town, explained

• **The beachfront** is lined with seafood restaurants and bars, busy at sunset.
• **The central streets** a block or two inland have the market, cafés, surf shops and guesthouses.
• **The Cristo de la Misericordia** statue on the northern headland has the best view over the bay. Walk up in the cooler late afternoon, or take a taxi.
• **The hills around town** hold villas and boutique stays with views.

The beaches

North of town:

• **Playa Marsella** is calm and quiet, good for swimming.
• **Playa Maderas** is the most popular surf beach, with consistent waves, surf schools and a laid back crowd.
• **Playa Majagual** is a sheltered cove for swimming.

South of town:

• **Playa Remanso** has gentle beginner waves.
• **Playa Hermosa** is a wide, beautiful private beach with a day entry.
• **Playa Yankee** has stronger waves for intermediate surfers.
• **La Flor Wildlife Refuge** is a protected beach where olive ridley turtles arrive in large numbers to nest, mostly from July to January.

Further north, past Tola, **Playa Gigante**, **Popoyo** and **Playa Guasacate** are quieter surf areas with some of Nicaragua's best breaks.

What to do

Take a surf lesson at Maderas or Remanso, go on a boat trip along the coast, visit La Flor in the evening with a guide during nesting season, or join a fishing trip. Sunday Funday, a long running pool party crawl, is famous among backpackers but is not for everyone.

Where to stay

Stay in town if you want restaurants and nightlife within walking distance, and use shuttles to reach the beaches. Stay at Playa Maderas or Marsella if you want to wake up by the waves and surf at dawn. The hills above town have quieter stays with views.

Fitting San Juan del Sur into a route

San Juan del Sur sits about half an hour from Rivas and the Ometepe ferry, and less than an hour from the Peñas Blancas border with Costa Rica, so many travellers spend a few days here on the way in or out of the country. Granada is about two hours away. For a longer beach stay, split time between town and one of the quieter surf beaches further north, such as Playa Gigante or Popoyo.

Practical tips

The beaches north and south are reached by rough dirt roads. Shuttles leave town several times a day, and taxis can be arranged. Rip currents are strong at the surf beaches, so swim where others swim and ask about conditions. Theft from unattended bags on the beach and robberies on isolated paths after dark have been reported, so travel in groups, take a taxi at night and leave valuables in your room.