Inle Lake: a first-timer's guide to the lake of stilt villages

Why go

Inle is one of the most distinctive places in Southeast Asia. A day on the lake passes fishermen balancing on the stern of their boats, tomato gardens floating on mats of weed, monasteries on stilts and village workshops making silver, cheroots and cloth. At an altitude of nearly nine hundred metres it is also cooler than the plains, which makes it a welcome break.

A day on the lake

Boat trips leave Nyaungshwe early in the morning in long tail boats. A typical day includes the leg rowing fishermen near the north of the lake, Phaung Daw Oo Pagoda with its gold covered Buddha images, the teak stilt monastery of Nga Phe Kyaung, floating gardens, and weaving workshops at In Paw Khone, where cloth is made from lotus stem fibre. Bring a warm layer, as mornings on the water are chilly.

In Dein

A narrow creek on the western shore leads to In Dein, where hundreds of old stupas, some restored and some crumbling, stand among bamboo. The village holds a market on the rotating five day schedule that moves around the lake.

Nyaungshwe and around

The town is small and easy to walk, with teahouses, a busy morning market and the oval windowed Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery just outside. Bicycles are the best way to reach Maing Thauk village, with its long wooden bridge into the lake, and the Red Mountain Estate vineyard for a sunset view.

Festivals

The Phaung Daw Oo Festival in September or October is the lake's great event, when sacred images tour the villages on a golden barge and teams race leg rowing boats. Boats and rooms book up fast at this time.

Trekking

The two or three day trek from Kalaw to Inle through Pa O and Danu villages was long one of the country's most popular walks. Check carefully before planning it, as parts of southern Shan State have been affected by fighting, and some routes have closed.

Where to stay

Nyaungshwe has guesthouses and mid-range hotels and the most restaurants. A few resorts sit on stilts over the water on the eastern and western shores, peaceful but further from town. Ask whether rooms have heating in December and January.

Staying safe

Shan State has seen serious fighting since 2021, including in areas south and west of the lake. Read your government's advice for this region carefully. Most visitors fly into Heho rather than drive, and should follow local news and hotel advice before leaving Nyaungshwe. Foreigners pay a zone entry fee on arrival; check the current amount locally.

Food at Inle

The Shan and Intha kitchens around the lake are a highlight. Try Shan noodles in clear broth or with a thick sauce, Inle fish cooked with tomato and garlic, tofu made from chickpeas, and tomato salads from the floating gardens. Nyaungshwe's morning market is the place for breakfast noodles and sticky rice snacks, and the town's small restaurants serve Shan dishes alongside traveller favourites.

Responsible visiting

The lake is fragile. Choose boat drivers who keep speeds down near villages, avoid plastic bottles where refills are offered, and buy crafts directly from workshops. Shops on the lake can be pushy; there is no obligation to buy. Ask before photographing people, and expect to tip the fishermen who pose near the jetty. A day boat is usually hired through your hotel; agree the route and finishing time first.