Tofo and Inhambane: whale sharks, surf and an old dhow town

Why visit Tofo

Tofo has the easy, sociable feel of a beach town where everyone ends up at the same market and bar. The waters offshore are home to whale sharks for much of the year, reef manta rays at dive sites like Manta Reef, and humpback whales from roughly July to October. Even non divers can join ocean safaris that snorkel with whale sharks when they are found.

Diving and ocean safaris

Several long established dive centres run boats from the beach. Choose an operator that follows responsible whale shark guidelines: small groups, no touching and keeping a distance. The Marine Megafauna Foundation, a research group based in the area, has helped shape these codes and sometimes gives public talks. Conditions vary with the weather, so leave spare days in case boats cannot launch.

Beaches near Tofo

Tofinho, the rocky point just south, is the surf spot and has a memorial to the independence struggle on the cliff. Barra, on the peninsula to the north, has calmer water, mangroves and lodges with a quieter feel. Further south, Guinjata and Paindane are remote stretches with small lodges and good snorkelling.

Inhambane town

Inhambane is one of the oldest settlements on the coast, with a trade history going back to Arab and Persian merchants. Walk the palm lined streets to the old Cathedral of Our Lady of Conception, the mosque, the museum and the market, then take the dhow ferry across the bay to Maxixe. It is sleepy, safe feeling and very photogenic in the late afternoon light.

Food

Tofo's daily market serves grilled fish, prawn curries, fresh bread and cold drinks. Try matapa, coconut rice, and the local cashews. Restaurants along the beach mix Mozambican and Portuguese dishes, and many dive groups end the day with sundowners on the sand.

Getting there and around

The quickest route is a flight from Maputo to Inhambane, then a short taxi to Tofo. By road, long distance buses and minibuses run from Maputo along the EN1 in about seven to eight hours with an early start. Avoid driving at night. In Tofo, everything is walkable; chapas link to Inhambane town.

Practical tips

Cash matters here: ATMs in Tofo can run dry, so arrive with enough meticais or plan a trip into Inhambane. Malaria is present, so use repellent at dusk. Keep an eye on belongings on the beach after dark and do not walk alone on empty stretches at night.

A suggested four day plan

Spend the first morning on an ocean safari to look for whale sharks, then relax on the beach and eat at the market. Day two is for diving Manta Reef or a beginner course. On day three, walk around the point to Tofinho, watch the surfers and visit the memorial, then head into Inhambane for the cathedral, the museum and a dhow ferry ride at sunset. Keep day four free as a weather day or for a trip to Barra's mangroves and calm water.

Responsible encounters

Keep at least three metres from whale sharks and four from their tails, never touch or ride them, and avoid flash photography. Good operators brief you on this before you enter the water.