The Sahara at Merzouga: a guide to Morocco's great dunes

Why go to the desert

The Sahara is the reason many people come to Morocco. Erg Chebbi is the most accessible of the country's great dune fields, with sand that glows red, orange and gold as the sun moves. Nights are silent, and on a clear, moonless night the sky is crowded with stars. The area is also home to Amazigh, or Berber, communities and to Gnawa musicians in the village of Khamlia, descendants of people brought across the Sahara centuries ago.

The road there

Merzouga is about nine to ten hours' drive from Marrakech without stops, so most travellers take three days for the full loop. The classic route crosses the High Atlas by the Tizi n'Tichka pass, stops at the fortified village of Ait Benhaddou, a UNESCO site and a backdrop for many films, and passes Ouarzazate, the Dades Valley with its rose fields and kasbahs, and the towering cliffs of the Todra Gorge near Tinghir. From Merzouga, many continue north through the Ziz Valley to Fes, another long day of about eight hours.

You can join a shared group tour, hire a private driver and guide, or travel independently by bus. Supratours and CTM buses reach Merzouga and Rissani, and local camps can collect you from the village.

Desert camps

Camps range from simple tents with shared bathrooms to comfortable luxury camps with private showers, proper beds and generators. Most include dinner, breakfast, a camel ride or four by four transfer in and out, and drumming around the fire after dark. Check what is included before booking, and check reviews from recent guests, since standards vary widely.

Things to do

Beyond camel rides, you can sandboard down the dunes, climb the highest dune for sunrise, ride quad bikes on designated tracks, visit the Gnawa musicians of Khamlia, and explore the fossil workshops and old market town of Rissani. Some camps offer nights further out in the quieter dunes.

When to go

October to April is the best season. Days are warm, but desert nights in December and January can drop close to freezing, so bring a warm layer and a hat. Summer is extremely hot and best avoided, and spring sometimes brings sandstorms.

What to pack

Bring a scarf or headwrap for sun and sand, sunglasses, sunscreen, a torch, warm layers for the night and a small overnight bag, since luggage usually stays at the hotel or in the vehicle. Many people buy a cheche, the long desert headscarf, in Merzouga itself.

Zagora or Merzouga?

Two day trips from Marrakech go to Zagora or M'Hamid, which are closer but have smaller, flatter dunes. If you want the classic towering dunes, allow three days and go to Merzouga. For a quick taste of the desert near Marrakech, the stony Agafay desert is an hour away, though it has no sand dunes.

Responsible travel

The desert is fragile and home to local families. Take your rubbish back with you, choose camps that limit noise and lights, and treat camels kindly. Quad bikes are noisy, so ride only on designated areas. Buying fossils, carpets or meals from village businesses helps the local economy. If you visit the Gnawa in Khamlia, a small contribution after the music is customary.