Essaouira: a guide to Morocco's laid-back Atlantic port

Why visit Essaouira

Known as Mogador in earlier centuries, Essaouira was laid out in the 1760s by a French engineer for Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, which gives its medina unusually straight streets. The town became a major trading port and was home to a large Jewish community. Today its medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and its mix of artists, musicians, surfers and fishing families gives it a relaxed, creative feel. The wind that keeps summers cool also makes it one of Africa's best known kitesurfing spots.

What to see and do

Walk the Skala de la Ville, the sea ramparts lined with old bronze cannons, and the Skala du Port for views of the fortified harbour and the boatyards where wooden trawlers are still built by hand. In the medina, browse thuya wood workshops, where craftsmen carve the fragrant local wood into boxes and bowls, galleries of local painters, and stalls of argan oil and spices. The Mellah has been gradually restored, and Bayt Dakira, a house of memory, tells the story of the town's Jewish heritage.

The harbour and seafood

The best meal in town is often the simplest. At the fish stalls between the harbour and the medina, you choose your fish, prawns or sardines from the day's catch and have them grilled on the spot. Agree the price per kilo before they start cooking. In the medina, small restaurants serve fish tagines and seafood pastilla, and cafés on Place Moulay Hassan are perfect for people watching.

Beaches, surf and wind

The long town beach is better for walks, football and camel rides than swimming, as the water is cool and the wind strong. Kitesurf and windsurf schools rent gear and give lessons. Sidi Kaouki, about thirty minutes south, is quieter, with surf and long empty sands. Further north, surfers head to Taghazout near Agadir.

Music and festivals

The Gnaoua World Music Festival, usually held in June, fills the squares with Gnawa trance music and international guests, and is one of the best loved festivals in Africa. Book accommodation well ahead if your dates coincide.

Where to stay

Riads inside the medina are the most atmospheric choice and easy to walk to everything. Hotels along the beach road suit families and kitesurfers, and guesthouses in the countryside nearby offer peace and pools.

Day trips

Argan cooperatives, run by women's groups, line the road towards Marrakech, where you can see the oil being made. Goats in argan trees are a famous roadside sight, though some are placed there for photos. Horse rides along the dunes south of town are popular.

Getting there

Buses from Supratours and CTM run several times a day from Marrakech and take about three hours. Essaouira also has a small airport with some flights from Europe.

Practical tips

Pack a warm layer and a windproof jacket even in summer, because the breeze can be chilly in the evening. The medina is flat and easy to walk, and touts are far fewer than in Marrakech. Small gallery owners and craftsmen are happy to chat about their work, so take your time. Cash machines are found near Bab Doukkala and the main square. Many shops close for a long lunch, and Fridays are quieter around midday prayers.