Marrakech: a first-timer's guide to the red city

Why visit Marrakech

Few cities pack so much atmosphere into so small a space. Within a short walk you can bargain for lanterns in the souks, sit in the cool courtyards of a nineteenth century palace, wander through cactus and bougainvillea in a famous blue garden and watch the sun set over the Koutoubia minaret from a rooftop. The snow-capped High Atlas sit on the horizon, and mountain villages, waterfalls and the stony Agafay desert are all within an easy day trip.

The medina and Jemaa el Fna

The heart of the old city is Jemaa el Fna, a huge open square that changes through the day. Mornings bring orange juice sellers and henna artists, and as the light fades rows of food stalls set up with grills, snail soup and harira. Be aware that snake charmers and monkey handlers will ask for money if you take photos, and that henna artists sometimes start drawing before you have agreed anything.

North of the square the souks spread out by trade: leather, metalwork, spices, carpets and the dyers' souk with skeins drying overhead. Getting lost is part of the fun, and the main lanes lead back to the square. If someone tells you a street is closed or offers to show you the way, smile, say no thank you and keep walking.

Palaces, gardens and museums

Bahia Palace is a maze of painted ceilings and tiled courtyards, and the Saadian Tombs hold richly carved burial halls. Ben Youssef Madrasa, a former Quranic school, has some of the finest carved cedar and stucco in the country. Jardin Majorelle, the cobalt garden once owned by Yves Saint Laurent, is best at opening time, with the YSL Museum next door. Le Jardin Secret in the medina is a calmer alternative, and Dar El Bacha houses a museum of confluences and an elegant coffee house.

Neighbourhoods and where to stay

For atmosphere, stay in a riad in the medina: the Mouassine and Riad Zitoun areas are central and easy to navigate, while the Kasbah area near the Saadian Tombs is a little quieter. Gueliz and Hivernage, the new town, have modern hotels, wide streets, cafés and galleries, and suit travellers who want a break from the medina's intensity. The Palmeraie, north of the city, has resort hotels with pools and gardens.

Food

Try tangia, the slow cooked meat pot that is a Marrakech speciality, alongside tagines, couscous on Friday and grilled meats from the square. The Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, and the souks around Rahba Kedima have simple local snack bars, and Gueliz has the city's wider range of modern restaurants.

Day trips

The Ourika Valley and Imlil, base for hikes towards Toubkal, North Africa's highest peak, are about an hour or two away. The Ouzoud waterfalls are a longer day out, and the Agafay desert offers sunset dinners and camel rides within an hour of the city. Essaouira is about three hours west.

Getting around

The medina is best on foot, though motorbikes zip through the lanes so stay alert. Petit taxis cover the city: insist on the meter or agree the fare before you get in. Your riad can usually send someone to meet you at the edge of the medina, as cars cannot reach most doors.