Ulaanbaatar: a first-timer's guide to Mongolia's capital

Why visit Ulaanbaatar

Ulaanbaatar is the gateway to the whole country. The international airport, the main tour companies, the best hotels and almost all the restaurants are here, and a couple of days in the city gives you the history and culture to make sense of the countryside. It is not a pretty city in the classic sense, but it is energetic, young and full of surprises.

Top things to do

Start at **Chinggis Khaan Square**, also known as Sukhbaatar Square, with the parliament building and its huge seated statue of Chinggis Khaan. A short walk away, the **Chinggis Khaan National Museum** tells the story of the country from prehistory to today, and the **Central Museum of Mongolian Dinosaurs** holds Gobi fossils including a famous Tarbosaurus.

In the west of the centre, **Gandan Monastery** is the heart of Mongolian Buddhism. Come in the morning to hear monks chanting and see the towering standing statue of Migjid Janraisig. The **Choijin Lama Temple Museum** is a small group of temples full of masks and paintings, now surrounded by towers, and the **Winter Palace of the Bogd Khan** in the south shows how Mongolia's last king lived.

For the best view, climb the steps of the **Zaisan Memorial** at sunset. In the evening, see a traditional show of throat singing, morin khuur horsehead fiddle and contortion by the Tumen Ekh ensemble, or catch a ballet at the pink opera house on the square.

Markets and shopping

**Narantuul Market**, known as the Black Market, is a sprawling bazaar for felt boots, saddles, ger furniture and almost anything else. Go in daylight and keep valuables zipped away, as pickpockets work the crowds. For cashmere, felt slippers and souvenirs, try the top floor of the **State Department Store** or the brand stores along Peace Avenue.

Neighbourhoods and where to stay

Most visitors stay in the Sukhbaatar district around the square and Peace Avenue, which puts the museums, restaurants and tour offices within walking distance. Seoul Street and the streets behind the State Department Store have bars and cafes. The Zaisan and Khan-Uul areas to the south are newer, quieter and close to the Winter Palace. Guesthouses near the centre are good places to meet other travellers and share countryside trips.

Food and drink

Try steamed buuz dumplings, fried khuushuur pastries and tsuivan noodles at local canteens. The city also has a big Korean food scene, hot pot restaurants, good Indian food and several vegetarian places. Coffee shops are everywhere. Mongolians celebrate with vodka, but beer halls with house brews are popular in summer.

Getting around

The centre is walkable. Taxis and ride hailing apps are the easiest way to go further, and city buses use a rechargeable card. Traffic is heavy at rush hour, so allow plenty of time for the airport, which sits around an hour south of the city.

Safety and practical tips

Ulaanbaatar is generally safe, but pickpocketing and bag slashing happen in markets, on buses and around Peace Avenue. Avoid walking alone late at night, keep away from drunk groups and use registered taxis or apps. In winter, the city has some of the worst air pollution in the world from coal stoves, which matters if you have asthma. Check your government's current advice before you travel, and plan the rest of your trip with the free trip planner.