The Altai and Ulgii: eagle hunters and glaciers in the far west

Why visit the Altai

Western Mongolia feels like a different country. The people are mostly Kazakh, with their own language, Muslim faith, embroidered homes and cuisine. The landscape is higher and wilder, with glaciers and the country's tallest peaks. Visitors are fewer than in the Gobi or the centre, and the welcome is warm.

Ulgii

The provincial capital **Ulgii** is a low, dusty town on the Khovd River and the base for every trip in the region. Visit the **Bayan-Ulgii Aimag Museum** for Kazakh culture and wildlife, browse the **market** for embroidery and felt, and try beshbarmak, a dish of boiled meat and noodles, with milky tea. The town has guesthouses, ger camps, banks and tour operators.

The Golden Eagle Festival

Each year, usually in early October, eagle hunters gather near Ulgii for the **Golden Eagle Festival**. Riders in fox fur hats compete to call their eagles from a cliff, and there are horse games, camel races and Kazakh music. Smaller festivals take place in Sagsai and Tolbo around the same time. Book flights and stays well ahead, as places fill up.

For a deeper experience, stay with an **eagle hunter family** outside the festival, when you can see how the birds are cared for and trained. Choose operators who treat the families and their eagles with respect.

Altai Tavan Bogd National Park

Near the borders of China and Russia, **Altai Tavan Bogd National Park** holds five holy peaks, including Khuiten, Mongolia's highest. Treks lead to base camp beside the **Potanin Glacier**, the country's longest. The long lakes of **Khoton** and **Khurgan** are good for camping and riding, with Kazakh and Tuvan herding families nearby. The park lies in a border zone, so you need a border permit, which tour operators arrange.

Rock art

The **Petroglyphic Complexes of the Mongolian Altai** are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At Tsagaan Salaa and Baga Oigor, thousands of carvings show hunters, mammoths, deer and chariots across thousands of years.

Getting there

Ulgii is a long flight from Ulaanbaatar, compared with several days overland. Domestic flights are limited and change with the season, so book early. From Ulgii, the national park is a long day's drive on rough tracks with a driver guide.

When to go

June to September is best for trekking, and early October for the festival. Snow can fall at any time in the high mountains, and winter is extremely cold.

Practical tips

Carry cash from Ulgii, as there are few ATMs elsewhere. Bring warm layers, a good sleeping bag and sun protection. Dress modestly and remember that many Kazakh families are Muslim. Plan your western trip with the free trip planner.

Responsible eagle and rock art visits

Eagle hunting is a living tradition, not a show, and most hunters release their birds back to the wild after some years. Ask before photographing people, pay families fairly through your operator and never encourage birds to be disturbed for pictures. At rock art sites, do not touch, chalk or wet the carvings to make them clearer, and stay on existing tracks. Leave camps clean, as rubbish lasts a long time in this dry, cold climate. Kazakh hospitality is generous, so a small gift for the family is a kind gesture.

Combining the west with the rest

Most visitors fly in and out of Ulgii from the capital and spend a week or more in the region. Overlanders sometimes continue east through the lakes of Uvs and Khovd provinces, but this takes many days on rough roads.