Ari Atoll: whale sharks, famous dives and undersea dining

Why go

Ari is the atoll to choose if what lies under the water matters most. Its channels and submerged reefs, called **thilas**, draw grey reef sharks, mantas, turtles and huge fish schools, and the outer reef of South Ari is patrolled by whale sharks. It is also big enough to offer every style of stay, from simple guesthouses to some of the best known resorts in the country.

Whale sharks in South Ari

The **South Ari Marine Protected Area** runs along the outer reef between Dhigurah and Ariadhoo. Young whale sharks feed here throughout the year, and boats from resorts and guesthouses search the reef edge each morning. Sightings are never guaranteed, but they are common. Follow the code of conduct: keep a respectful distance, never touch the shark, do not use flash and let the guide limit the number of swimmers. Many experienced guides say August to November is often the best period, but conditions vary.

Diving and snorkelling

North Ari has two of the most famous dives in the country. **Fish Head**, or Mushimasmingili Thila, is a protected pinnacle with grey reef sharks and clouds of fusiliers. **Maaya Thila** is a small round reef with whitetip sharks and turtles that is famous for night dives. In the south, **Kudarah Thila** has overhangs full of soft coral. Off the northeast corner, **Rasdhoo Atoll** has the **Madivaru** channel, where hammerheads are sometimes seen at dawn. Many resort house reefs, such as Vakarufalhi's and Mirihi's, are excellent snorkelling straight from the beach.

Local islands

**Dhigurah** is a long, thin island with one of the most beautiful beaches of any local island and the whale shark area on its doorstep. **Dhangethi** is a busy fishing island with guesthouses and a bikini beach. **Ukulhas** in the north is known for its clean, well kept streets, recycling and long sandy beach. **Fenfushi** has a fine **coral stone mosque** and a history of coral stone cutting. On all of them, dress modestly in the village and save swimwear for the bikini beach and boats.

Resorts

Ari has many resorts. **Conrad Maldives Rangali Island** spreads over two islands and is home to **Ithaa**, a glass walled undersea restaurant five metres below the surface. **Mirihi** and **Vakarufalhi** are small, relaxed islands with superb house reefs. **LUX South Ari Atoll** is lively and close to whale shark waters, **Lily Beach** and **Centara Grand** are all inclusive and family friendly, **Constance Halaveli** and **W Maldives** in the north have overwater villas, and **Kuramathi** in Rasdhoo has a long sandbank and lots of activities.

Food

Resorts serve everything from Maldivian curries to fine dining; ask for a Maldivian night with **garudhiya**, **mas riha** fish curry and **bondibaiy** rice pudding. Guesthouses cook fresh reef fish and tuna, often caught that morning.

Getting there

Resorts usually use seaplanes from the airport, a scenic flight over the atolls that only operates in daylight. A domestic flight to **Maamigili** in South Ari followed by a short speedboat ride is another option, and shared speedboats link Malé with Dhigurah, Dhangethi, Ukulhas and Rasdhoo on most days. If you arrive after dark, you may need a night near the airport before a seaplane.

Tips

Bring reef safe sunscreen and a rash guard for long snorkel trips. Book whale shark excursions with licensed operators who follow the protected area rules. Currents in the channels can be strong, so dive within your experience and with a guide.