Buchanan: beaches and Bassa life on the southern coast

A little history

Buchanan grew from the settlement of **Bassa Cove**, founded in the 1830s by settlers sponsored by Quaker and other colonization societies from Pennsylvania and New York. The town is named after Thomas Buchanan, an early governor and a cousin of the American president. In the twentieth century it became an iron ore port, and the railway from the Nimba mountains still ends here, carrying ore to ships offshore.

The surrounding county is the homeland of the **Bassa** people, who developed their own script, Vah, one of the few indigenous writing systems in Africa.

Beaches

Buchanan's beaches are long, wide and mostly empty. Walk north or south from town along the sand, watch fishermen launch and land their canoes, and look for grilled fish and cold drinks at simple beach spots, especially at weekends. As everywhere on Liberia's coast, currents can be strong, so swim only where locals say it is safe and never alone.

Around town

• **The market** in the centre is busy and colourful, good for fresh fish, fruit, palm oil and Bassa country cloth.
• **The port and the old railway** are a reminder of the iron ore trade that shaped the town.
• **Churches** from the settler era, and the quiet streets of the older part of town, reward an unhurried walk.
• **Sunset on the beach** is the main event most evenings.

Further afield

Grand Bassa has rubber and oil palm plantations, rivers and small Bassa villages inland. Ask your hotel about trips along the **St John River** or to nearby beaches and lagoons. Travel inland on rough roads is best done in the dry season with a reliable driver.

Eating in Buchanan

Seafood is the highlight: grilled fish, pepper soup, fried shrimp and fish with rice. Small cookshops serve palm butter and cassava leaf at lunchtime, and roadside sellers offer roasted corn, plantain and fresh coconut. The choice is smaller than in Monrovia, so be flexible and ask what is good that day.

Where to stay

Buchanan has a handful of simple hotels and guesthouses, mostly used by business travellers and NGO staff. Expect basic but clean rooms, generators that run at set hours and slow wifi. Choose somewhere with good security and running water, and book a day or two ahead.

Getting there

The paved road from Monrovia runs southeast past the airport at Harbel and through rubber country. It takes about three hours, depending on traffic and checkpoints. Shared taxis and minibuses leave from Monrovia's Red Light area, or you can arrange a car and driver. Travelling in daylight is strongly recommended.

Tips

• Bring enough cash. There are banks in Buchanan, but cash machines are not always reliable.
• Combine Buchanan with Monrovia for an easy loop, or continue east if you have time and a solid plan.
• Greet people warmly and take your time. It goes a long way here.

Who Buchanan suits

Buchanan suits travellers who want to see ordinary coastal life, families with roots in Grand Bassa, and anyone who wants a quiet beach weekend within reach of the capital. It is a good place to slow down, talk to people and watch the fishing canoes come in.

Find more in our Liberia destinations and places to visit.