Salmiya: Kuwait's seafront for cafés, malls and sunsets

Why visit Salmiya

Salmiya sits on a headland southeast of Kuwait City, about a twenty minute drive from the centre when traffic is kind. It was once a small fishing village called Ras Ajuza. Today it is one of the most densely populated parts of Kuwait, home to Kuwaitis and to large communities from India, the Philippines, Egypt, Lebanon and beyond. That mix gives it a relaxed, cosmopolitan energy and some of the best low cost food in the country. Evenings here are about strolling, eating and people watching rather than drinking: alcohol is banned in Kuwait, and the nightlife is cafés, dessert shops and long walks by the sea.

Marina Crescent and Marina Mall

The heart of Salmiya's seafront is Marina Crescent, a curved promenade of restaurants and cafés looking out over the yachts. It connects by a bridge to Marina Mall, which has a broad range of shops and food outlets. On cool winter evenings the terraces fill with families and groups of friends until late. Sunset here is one of the nicest free experiences in Kuwait.

The Scientific Center

At the tip of the headland, the Scientific Center of Kuwait is shaped like the sail of a dhow. Its aquarium is one of the largest in the Middle East, with a huge tank of sharks and rays, tidal pools and a desert section with lizards and other creatures adapted to the heat. There is also a discovery centre for children, a big screen theatre and the Al Hashemi Marine Museum's dhows outside. Allow half a day with children.

Salem Al Mubarak Street

Inland, Salem Al Mubarak Street is Salmiya's busy main road. It is lined with shops selling perfume, oud, fabrics and electronics, along with older malls and many restaurants. It is at its liveliest late in the evening, and especially on Thursday and Friday nights. The surrounding blocks are full of small eateries: Indian thali and biryani, Filipino adobo, Lebanese shawarma, Egyptian koshari and Kuwaiti bakeries.

Beaches and the corniche

Public beaches and walking paths run along Arabian Gulf Street through Salmiya. The water is calm but not as clear as on the southern coast, and the sun is fierce from May to September. Women generally swim in modest swimwear on public beaches; hotel beach clubs are more relaxed. Families picnic on the sand on winter weekends, a pleasant scene to join.

Arts and culture

Bayt Lothan, set in a former family home, hosts art exhibitions, craft workshops and markets, with a garden café. The Tareq Rajab Museum and its calligraphy collection are a short drive away in Jabriya, and both are among the best small museums in the Gulf.

Where to stay

Salmiya has the widest choice of hotels outside the city centre, from beachfront resorts and serviced apartments to simple budget hotels. Staying near the seafront lets you walk to Marina Crescent in the evening, which is a real advantage in a car focused country.

Getting around

Taxis and ride hailing apps are easy to find. Buses link Salmiya to Kuwait City and the airport, though they are slow. The Failaka ferry leaves from Ras Salmiya, a short ride away.

Use our places to visit list for cafés, restaurants and stays, and combine Salmiya with Kuwait City and a day on Failaka Island.