Jerash and the north: Roman cities and green hills

Why visit the north

Most visitors rush south to Petra, but the north holds some of the country's finest sights with far fewer crowds. Jerash, ancient Gerasa, was one of the cities of the Decapolis and flourished under Rome. Buried by earthquakes and sand, it was preserved remarkably well and has been excavated for more than a century.

Jerash

Enter through Hadrian's Arch, built for the emperor's visit, and walk past the hippodrome to the South Gate. The Oval Plaza, ringed by columns, is the city's famous image. From there the Cardo, a long colonnaded street still marked by chariot ruts, runs north past shops, fountains and churches. Climb to the Temple of Zeus and the South Theatre, where pipers and drummers often play to show off the acoustics, and finish at the Temple of Artemis. Allow three to four hours. A show of Roman soldiers and chariots has run in the hippodrome at times; check whether it is on.

The Jerash Festival

Each summer the Jerash Festival of Culture and Arts brings concerts, poetry and folk performances to the ancient theatres. Dates are announced each year.

Ajloun

Half an hour west of Jerash, Ajloun Castle was built in the twelfth century by one of Saladin's commanders to guard against the Crusaders and watch over the iron mines. Its towers give wide views over the hills. The Ajloun Forest Reserve, run by the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature, has marked trails through oak and strawberry trees, cabins to stay in and village projects making soap and biscuits.

Umm Qais and Pella

In the far north, Umm Qais, ancient Gadara, is built of black basalt and sits high above the Jordan Valley, with views to the Sea of Galilee and the Golan Heights. Pella, in the valley below, has layers from the Bronze Age to the Islamic period. Both are quiet and atmospheric.

Food

The north is farming country, known for olive oil, figs and pomegranates. After Jerash, many visitors eat mezze in the gardens of the Lebanese House, known as Um Khalil. Roadside stalls sell fruit, olives and fresh bread.

Getting there

Jerash is about fifty minutes from Amman. Buses run from Tabarbour station, but most visitors take a taxi or a driver to link Jerash with Ajloun in one day. Umm Qais is around two hours from Amman. Note that governments advise against travel near the Syrian border, so check current travel advice before heading to the far north. Plan your day with our free trip planner and see more spots on our places to visit list.

Practical tips

There is little shade in Jerash, so bring water and a hat and go early. Spring brings wildflowers across the hills, and autumn is pleasant and calm.

Where to stay

Most visitors see the north as a day trip from Amman, which works well. To slow down, sleep at the Ajloun Forest Lodge cabins, in a small guesthouse near Umm Qais or in the university city of Irbid, which has lively student cafés and simple hotels. A night in the hills lets you walk the forest trails early and catch the sunset over the Jordan Valley, when the light on the basalt and olive groves is at its best.