Portland, Jamaica

Port Antonio: a first-timer's guide to Jamaica's green east

Port Antonio is the capital of Portland, the greenest and rainiest parish in Jamaica. Mass tourism never really arrived, so it feels quiet and authentic. Rainforest runs down to the sea, rivers pour from the Blue Mountains, and the coves and beaches are some of the most beautiful on the island.

San San, Port Antonio
Photo: Layneartz19, CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Nature, quiet beaches, rafting and jerk
Nearest airport
Norman Manley International in Kingston, about two hours by road
Time needed
Three to five days
Best season
Drier months from January to April; it rains often all year
Getting around
Licensed taxis, route taxis and local guides
Good base for
Rio Grande, Moore Town, Reach Falls and the Blue Mountains

Why visit Port Antonio

In the 1950s Port Antonio was a hideaway for film stars, including Errol Flynn, who brought rafting on the Rio Grande to fame. Since then the big resorts have stayed on the north and west coasts. That leaves a small harbour town of twin bays, a few boutique hotels in the hills, and a slower, greener Jamaica that many returning visitors love most.

The town

The town has two harbours, East and West, divided by the Titchfield peninsula. The **Errol Flynn Marina** is a pleasant spot for a stroll, and **Musgrave Market** sells fruit and crafts. On Folly Point you can explore the ruins of **Folly Mansion**, an early twentieth century house by the sea.

Beaches and coves

**Frenchman's Cove** is a tiny bay where a cold river meets the warm sea; there is a charge to enter. **Winnifred Beach** at Fairy Hill is a free public beach run by the community, lively with food stalls and families on weekends. **San San Beach** is calm and pretty. Further east, **Long Bay** is a wide windswept bay with simple bars and small waves.

The Blue Lagoon

The **Blue Lagoon** is a deep lagoon where cold springs mix with sea water, changing colour through the day. Local boatmen offer short trips and you can swim there. It was a film location in the 1980s.

Rivers and waterfalls

**Rio Grande rafting** is a slow trip on a bamboo raft poled by a captain, past forest and small riverside food stops. **Reach Falls** near Manchioneal has cool pools in thick forest, and **Somerset Falls** near Hope Bay sits in a gorge reached by a short boat ride. In the Rio Grande Valley, **Moore Town** is the home of the Windward Maroons, whose heritage is recognised by UNESCO.

Boston Bay and jerk

**Boston Bay**, about twenty minutes east, is widely said to be the birthplace of jerk, the Maroon way of slow cooking meat over pimento wood. The roadside **Boston Jerk Centre** stalls are a must. Below them, small waves make Boston a friendly place to learn to surf with local teachers.

Where to stay

Portland has some of the most beautiful small hotels in Jamaica: **Geejam** at San San with its recording studio, **Trident** on the coast, **Hotel Mockingbird Hill** in the hills, and the cliff side **Great Huts** at Boston Bay.

Getting there and staying comfortable

Port Antonio is about two hours from Kingston over the hills, or longer from Montego Bay along the north coast. Roads are winding. Bring rain gear and insect repellent, use licensed taxis and ask your hotel about guides.

When to go

Portland is green all year because it rains all year, but January to April is usually drier and sunnier. Heavy rain can raise rivers quickly, so rafting and waterfall trips may close after storms; ask locally on the day. Hurricane season from June to November affects the whole island, and the east is often first in line. Late in the year the hills are lush and the town is calm.

Who will love it

Port Antonio suits couples, nature lovers, photographers, surfers and anyone who has done the resort coasts and wants something slower. It is less ideal if you want nightlife or a big resort with every activity on site.

Plan your days with our places to visit list and the free trip planner.

Questions about Port Antonio

Is Port Antonio worth the long drive?

For nature lovers, yes. It is quieter and greener than the resort coasts, with some of the island's best beaches and waterfalls. Stay at least three nights to make the drive worth it.

Does it rain a lot in Port Antonio?

Yes. Portland is the wettest part of Jamaica, which is why it is so green. Showers often pass quickly, so pack light rain gear.

Is Boston Bay really the home of jerk?

Boston Bay is widely credited as the birthplace of jerk as a roadside food, rooted in Maroon cooking. Either way, it is one of the best places to eat it.

Can I swim in the Blue Lagoon?

Yes, many people do. The water is deep and cold in places, so swim within your ability and check local guidance.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

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