Campania

The Amalfi Coast: cliff villages, lemons and the sea

The Amalfi Coast is a fifty kilometre stretch of cliffs south of Naples where pastel villages tumble down to tiny beaches and the road clings to the rock above the sea. Positano, Amalfi and Ravello are the stars, with lemon groves, ceramic shops and ferries to Capri. It is beautiful and busy, so a little planning makes all the difference.

View of Positano
Photo: Alexis Lours, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

At a glance

Best for
Views, swimming, hiking and romance
Airport
Naples (NAP), then bus, ferry or private transfer to the coast
Time needed
Three to five days
Best season
May to June and September to early October
Getting around
Ferries, SITA buses and walking
Good base for
Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum and Naples

Why go

Few coastlines look this dramatic. The Lattari mountains drop straight into the Tyrrhenian Sea, and for centuries the villages were reachable mostly by boat. The Republic of Amalfi was once a sea power, and its cathedral, paper mills and lemon terraces still tell that story.

Top things to do

  • **Positano.** The postcard village, a cascade of houses down to the Spiaggia Grande. Lovely for an afternoon and an evening, with steep steps everywhere.
  • **Amalfi.** The historic town, with the striped Cathedral of Sant'Andrea, the Cloister of Paradise and the paper museum. It is also the ferry hub of the coast.
  • **Ravello.** High above the sea, with the gardens and terraces of Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone and a summer music festival.
  • **The Path of the Gods.** A cliff top walk from Bomerano in Agerola to Nocelle above Positano, about three hours with jaw dropping views. Wear proper shoes and start early.
  • **Capri.** A day trip by ferry for the Blue Grotto, the gardens of Augustus, Anacapri and the chairlift up Monte Solaro.
  • **A boat day.** Small group or shared boat trips reach coves, grottos and swimming spots that are hard to get to by land.
  • **Pompeii and Herculaneum.** The cities buried by Vesuvius are an easy trip from Sorrento on the Circumvesuviana train.

What to eat

Scialatielli ai frutti di mare, fresh pasta with seafood; spaghetti alla nerano with courgettes from Nerano; delizia al limone lemon cake; colatura di alici anchovy sauce from Cetara; mozzarella from the plains around Salerno; and limoncello made from the coast's sfusato lemons. Naples, nearby, is the home of pizza.

Where to stay

**Positano** is the most glamorous and most expensive. **Amalfi** is central for ferries and buses. **Ravello** is quiet and romantic but far from the beaches. **Praiano** and **Minori** are calmer and good value. **Sorrento**, just off the coast, is the practical choice, with trains to Naples and Pompeii and ferries to Capri and Positano.

Getting around

Ferries from Salerno, Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento are the most relaxing way to move between villages from spring to autumn. SITA buses run along the coast road year round but get very crowded in summer. Driving is stressful, parking is scarce, and number plate restrictions apply on the coast road in busy periods. Expect lots of steps.

Good to know

Most hotels and beach clubs open from around Easter to late October; winter is quiet and many places close. Beaches are small and pebbly, with paid sun loungers and smaller free sections. Book stays early for summer and avoid arriving late at night without a plan.

A sample four day plan

Arrive and settle into Amalfi or Sorrento. Spend day one exploring Amalfi's cathedral and lanes, then take the bus up to Ravello for its gardens in the late afternoon light. On day two, walk the Path of the Gods in the morning and finish in Positano for a swim and dinner. On day three, take an early ferry to Capri, ride the chairlift up Monte Solaro and see the Blue Grotto if the sea allows. On day four, visit Pompeii or Herculaneum on your way back towards Naples. Leave buffer time, because sea conditions and summer traffic can change plans quickly, and ferries are often cancelled in rough weather.

Questions about the Amalfi Coast

Where is the best base on the Amalfi Coast?

Amalfi for ferries and buses, Positano for the views, Ravello for peace, and Sorrento for trains and value.

When is the best time to visit the Amalfi Coast?

May, June, September and early October offer warm sea, open hotels and fewer crowds than July and August.

Can I visit the Amalfi Coast as a day trip from Rome?

It is possible but tiring. You will spend most of the day travelling, so stay at least two nights if you can.

Is the Path of the Gods hard?

It is a moderate walk mostly downhill if you start in Agerola, but it is rocky and exposed. Bring water, sun protection and good shoes.

Facts checked . Fees, schedules and entry rules change, so always confirm the latest with the official source.

More Italy guides

Ready for the Amalfi Coast?

Tell us your dates and who is travelling, and we’ll take care of the details.

Plan your tripBook a call