Lombok and the Gili Islands: beaches, turtles and Rinjani

Why go

If Bali feels busy, Lombok and the Gilis are the answer. The beaches are wide and quiet, the surf is excellent, and Rinjani is one of the great volcano treks of Southeast Asia. The Gilis are made for slowing down: you can walk around each one in an hour or two.

The Gili Islands

Gili Trawangan is the biggest and liveliest, with dive schools, a night market, beach bars and sunset swings on the west coast. Gili Meno is the quietest, popular with couples, with a salt lake and an underwater statue garden off its west shore. Gili Air sits between the two in mood, with cafés, yoga and a friendly village. Turtles are often seen while snorkelling off all three, especially off Gili Meno's east coast. The islands are mostly Muslim, so dress modestly away from the beach. Recreational drugs are illegal and penalties in Indonesia are severe, whatever you may be offered.

South Lombok

Kuta, now called Mandalika after the big tourism zone around it, is the base for the south. Tanjung Aan's bay, the hill at Bukit Merese for sunset, and Selong Belanak's long, gentle beach, ideal for learning to surf, are all close. Experienced surfers head to Gerupuk and Desert Point. The Mandalika circuit hosts MotoGP, and accommodation fills up around race weekends. Sasak villages such as Sade and Ende show traditional houses with thatched roofs, and Sukarara is known for its hand woven songket cloth.

Mount Rinjani and the north

Rinjani, the second highest volcano in Indonesia, rises above a crater lake called Segara Anak. Treks usually take two to four days from Senaru or Sembalun and are hard going, with steep, loose ground near the summit. Go only with a licensed operator, check that the national park trail is open, as it closes in the wet season and after volcanic activity, and be honest about your fitness. Gentler walks lead to the Tiu Kelep and Sendang Gile waterfalls near Senaru. The north west coast has the Senggigi strip, and boats leave for the Gilis from Bangsal and Teluk Nara.

Getting there and around

Fast boats run from Bali, mainly Padang Bai and Serangan, to the Gilis and Lombok, though the strait can be rough; choose operators with good safety records and avoid crossings in bad weather. The public ferry from Padang Bai to Lembar is slow but steady, and flights from Bali to Lombok take under an hour. On Lombok, use ride apps or a driver booked through your hotel. On the Gilis, walk, cycle or take a cidomo horse cart, though many visitors prefer to avoid these for animal welfare reasons.

Where to stay

On the Gilis, choose Trawangan for nightlife, Air for a relaxed mix and Meno for quiet. On Lombok, Kuta Mandalika is the best base for the southern beaches, and Senaru or Sembalun for Rinjani treks. Senggigi is calmer than in its heyday and handy for the boats. Many visitors split time between the Gilis and the south coast, and our places to visit list has beaches, warungs and bars across both.

Practical tips

Lombok was badly hit by earthquakes in 2018 and has rebuilt; know where to go in an earthquake or tsunami warning. Cash machines exist on Gili Trawangan and Air but can run dry, so carry rupiah. Respect prayer times and Ramadan, when daytime eating in public is less common outside tourist areas.