Labuan Bajo and Komodo: dragons, islands and manta rays

Why go

Few places offer such a mix of wildlife and scenery. In one day you can walk with a ranger among Komodo dragons, climb to a ridge above three curved bays, snorkel over coral gardens and watch thousands of flying foxes leave a mangrove island at dusk. The underwater life is extraordinary, with manta rays, turtles, reef sharks and dense schools of fish.

Seeing the dragons

Komodo dragons live on Komodo, Rinca and a few smaller islands. Visits are always with park rangers on set trails, usually at Loh Liang on Komodo or Loh Buaya on Rinca. The dragons can be slow and sleepy in the heat, but they are dangerous, so stay with your ranger and follow every instruction. People who are menstruating are often advised to tell the ranger. The park sets entry rules, permits and zones, and these have changed several times in recent years, so check the national park and local government announcements before booking.

The islands and the sea

Padar Island is the postcard view: a short, steep climb at sunrise to see three bays of white, black and pink sand. Pink Beach takes its colour from red coral fragments mixed with white sand. Manta Point, also called Makassar Reef, is where mantas feed in strong currents; snorkellers and divers both see them. Taka Makassar is a sandbar that appears at low tide, Kanawa Island has easy snorkelling off the beach, and Kalong Island is where the bats fly at sunset. Diving here is world class but currents can be powerful, so choose a well reviewed, licensed dive centre and dive within your experience.

Choosing a boat

Most visitors join a day trip by speedboat or spend one to three nights on a liveaboard, often a traditional wooden pinisi. Day speedboats cover a lot quickly; overnight boats let you reach Padar for sunrise and enjoy quieter moorings. Safety standards vary widely, and there have been sinkings and fires, so check that the boat is registered, carries life jackets for everyone and has a radio, and do not board in rough weather. Book through established operators and read recent reviews.

Labuan Bajo town

The town has a busy waterfront with sunset bars, a night fish market at Kampung Ujung where you choose seafood to grill, and hilltop viewpoints such as Bukit Sylvia. Inland, Flores has much more: the spider web rice fields near Ruteng, the traditional village of Wae Rebo in the mountains, and further east, the coloured crater lakes of Kelimutu.

Where to stay

Most hotels sit on the hill above the harbour, with sunset views over the islands, or along the coast to the north. Staying close to the harbour makes early departures simple. A night or two on a boat inside the park is the most memorable option, letting you wake near Padar or a quiet reef. Book well ahead in July and August, and check our places to visit list for restaurants and viewpoints in town.

Practical tips

Fly in from Bali or Jakarta to Komodo Airport. Bring reef safe sunscreen, a hat and plenty of water, as the islands are hot and shadeless. Seas can be rough from December to March. Cash machines are in town, but carry enough rupiah for park and island fees, which are set by the authorities and change, so check them before you go.